The Greyhound Tidmarsh (& Further Ale Trail Pubs)

Sunshine and unseasonably warm February weather were what greeted us on our fourth excursion on the mission to complete 2019's Reading Ale Trail.
We alighted the train today at Pangbourne.  If I had a little time to spare when passing through on the return journey I figured I could go shopping for cars in the dealerships near the station.

Yep, the green one looks like a nice little run-around and will solve my problems about how to get to The Bell at Waltham St Lawrence in a couple of weeks time.

Walking southwards following the River Pang took us through some thoroughly pleasant countryside.

PUB 15: Greyhound (The Street, Tidmarsh, RG8 8ER - website)
It was around a 1 mile walk to get to Tidmarsh where we soon found our first destination of the day, the Greyhound, a picturesque thatched pub.
The building dates back to the 12th century and has reportedly been a pub since 1625.  We're fortunate that it's still around, with a destructive blaze in February 2005, then firefighters being called back again in 2017 to put out a chimney fire.

If you could all just move your cars for the perfect pub picture, please.

No denying that it's looking glorious in the sunshine today.
The ceiling of the front rooms is not designed for tall customers with a clearance of 5ft 8in and soft cushions attached to the lowest beams to prevent injuries.  This being a Fuller's pub, 'London Pride' appears on the bar alongside Gales 'HSB' and Dark Star 'Partridge'.  With a half of the Dark Star we sat in the front room where a TV had been set up for the Six Nations rugby coverage.  The low-volume commentary of France v Scotland on TV was competing with Elton John and Kiki Dee from the pub speakers.  All things considered and Elton notwithstanding, this was a great little relaxed country pub.

Inside the Greyhound at Tidmarsh

From Tidmarsh we re-traced our steps back to Pangbourne and caught a train to Reading. And from there it was a bus ride out to Woodley. 

PUB 16: Good Companions (194 Loddon Bridge Road, Woodley, RG5 4AG)
I'd imagine that this is the pub that would have raised the most eyebrows when the selection of 24 chosen for the Ale Trail was unveiled.  
An estate pub?  In Woodley?  Serving Greene King IPA?

We arrived with impeccable bad timing, as the lone barman suddenly became engulfed with customers arriving ahead of Wales versus England rugby excitement.
I'll be fair to the barman, it may not have been service with a smile, but he served everyone efficiently in the right order and didn't let the onslaught of punters phase him.
Ho hum...GK IPA, Abbot or Rev.James on the hand pumps.  All my favourites...
The Good Companions essentially does the job an estate pub should be doing - it has a local following, big screen TVs for sport, a pool table and pub grub.  It's not going to turn out to be my favourite pub of the Trail, but I'm the first to bemoan huge housing estates without a pub, so wish it a continuing success.


From here, back through town and out west to....

PUB 17: Forester's Arms (79-81 Brusnwick Street, Reading, RG1 6NY)
There's a big 'To Let' board attached to the Brewers Tudor frontage of the Forester's Arms.  With this being a regular in the Good Beer Guide and listed for it's heritage interior, I do hope that they can get the right tenants to take this pub on.

Today the front room is busy with folks just returned from the football and moaning about something the referee did or didn't do, with rugby action on the TV.  We retreat down the side corridor into the quieter back room.  This is a bare-bones pub room, with darts board, pool table and a scattering of dumpy stools to sit on.
The Forester's sticks to serving just two beers with the choice today being Timothy Taylor's 'Boltmaker' or Fuller's 'Swing Low'. 
Why oh why do I keep picking these rugby beers? Not a contender for beer-of-the-day this one.

PUB 18: The Butler (85-91 Chatham Street, Reading, RG1 7DS)
As per the Forester's, I've covered the Butler and the nearby Nags Head on this blog in a recent post.

Their beer mats advertise that they're part of Timothy Taylor's "Champions Cl
ub", so I guess a 'Landlord' may have been the right choice on the bar. But instead I went with an Andwell 'King John' in the search for something darker.

We settled into the big armchairs in the quiet side room of the Butler. Then struggled to get out of them again....four pubs in and we're worn out.

PUB 19: Nag's Head (5 Russell Street, Reading, RG1 7XD)

Somewhere that all Ale-Trailers will undoubtedly be very familiar with. Busy, with a great selection of beers to cater for all tastes.  Need I say more?  Nope, not today.

PUB 20: Castle Tap (120 Castle Street, Reading, RG1 7RJ)
The Castle Tap was celebrating its 4th birthday this weekend, with the 'books 'n board games' corner set up as a stage for some live music.  This is a pub that I've often called into, although generally of an afternoon so I've never seen it anywhere near this busy. 
We squeezed into a corner as best as possible and watched some chap with a guitar swear a lot.
The beer selection may not be as extensive as at the Nags, but it's always damn fine, with craft keg lines and five cask ales on offer.  Finally I was onto the dark stuff with a pint of Wander Beyond Brewery 'Great Rift', a pleasant 6% milk stout.
We stayed for another whilst a country-rock Ramones cover-band took over from sweary bloke.

The Castle Tap in Fourth Birthday Party Swing

And that's another chunk of the Ale Trail complete - four left on the final leg to be tackled sometime in March.  Cheers!

Reading Ale Trail 2019

We'd begun the challenge of the 2019 Reading Ale Trail a week ago and clocked up 10 of the 24 pubs so far.  This weekend our plan saw us setting out early on a Saturday morning, catching the train to Reading, then grabbing a day-pass for the buses.  The aim was to tick off a couple of pubs on the western and southern fringes of the map.
Jet Black 1 (not quite as cool a bus as the name suggests) took us to the village of Woolhampton and our first stop of the day...

PUB 11: The Rowbarge (Station Road, Woolhampton, RG7 5SH - website)

The 18th century Rowbarge pub at Woolhampton

Smart interiors - the Rowbarge

I've not knowingly visited a Brunning and Price pub previously and various pub blogging reports of them hadn't made me excited to break that duck.  B&P's own website claims "each pub has it's own style and flavour", although plenty of folk contest this and accuse them of being very formulaic.
Cut flowers on the table, lots of black & white framed pictures on the walls, scatter cushions, Baylis and Harding soap in the bathrooms...
But their pubs have a strong presence in the Good Beer Guide due to commendable dedication to cask ale. The Rowbarge holds the crown of West Berkshire CAMRA regional pub of the year, and justifying this there was a good range of beers on with several local breweries represented. We settled down in the front room with an Indiginous 'Nosey Parker', a great 5% mild in good condition.
The Rowbarge has a wonderful location, next to the canal with a large outdoor area which would be a winner in the warmer months.  Arriving just after 11am there were only a couple of other customers and we'd left before an inevitable bottle-neck on the single-track canal bridge as family 4x4's arrive for gastro-pub dining experiences.  The phone at the bar had been ringing constantly for table reservations whilst we'd been there.

Heading back to the main road we hopped back on the Jet Black 1 in the direction we'd come and alighted at Theale.
South of the village, past the railway station, our second destination was a short walk away... 

PUB 12: Fox & Hounds (Station Road, Sheffield Bottom, Theale, RG7 4BE - website)

This pub is around 200 years old, previously a farmers inn called the Drum and Monkey.

Fox & Hounds, Sheffield Bottom, Theale

Not a recognised pub snack.

I was initially sceptical as the beer guide entry stated that "the emphasis is on food" and sure enough, on entering, the staff hit us with a "will you be dining with us?". 
On this occasion we decided it would be a good option for lunch, but visiting for just a drink would have been fine.

The Fox and Hounds advertise themselves as "Britain's dog-friendliest pub" and have won a string of accolades for this.  Almost every customer who walked in seemed to have brought their dog for a lunchtime pub experience.
But today the show is well and truly stolen by Bear, an enormous St Bernard and apparently a bit of a pub regular.  Something of a celebrity, he's stroked and photographed and his owners answer a string of questions whilst diligently mopping up the copious amount of saliva that Bear deposits behind him.

St Bernard, Bear, blocks the route to the bar

The pub is a Wadworth house and, whilst okay, I never really get overly excited by their beers. But lunch was excellent and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend visiting here.  The sticky toffee pudding for dessert fueled us with the energy required to tackle Tilehurst.

There are no less than THREE Fox & Hounds on this year's Reading Ale Trail - we'd started the trail in the Caversham one, had thoroughly enjoyed swooning over big slobbery dogs in the second and were on our way to the third, to achieve Fox and Hound completion.
We'd decided to tackle the next leg of the journey on foot and had roughly a 3-mile walk ahead of us.  This involved following the Kennet & Avon canal, then branching off to the right into fields, across the railway line and finally into residential streets.  I'd made a detailed map of how to navigate these suburban crescents and cul-de-sacs. 
But I left it at home, so we inevitably got lost.
Walking through an alleyway I was still insisting I knew where I was and proclaimed that the pub would probably be right in front of us at the end of the alley.
And it was!

Fox & Hounds No.3

PUB 13: Fox and Hounds (116 City Road, Tilehurst, RG31 5SB - website)
We were the odd ones out here, being obviously the only non-locals.
At all previous pubs on the Ale Trail we needed to request the stickers for our booklet, but the girl behind the bar offered them to us here, without us asking.
Strange folk arriving and ordering half's of real ale...."how did you know we were collecting the ale trail stickers?"
"Sometimes you can just tell..." she replied.

A chap in the front room near us was talking about Frank Carter's circle-pit around the tent at Reading Festival last year.  Which is the sort of conversation I'd happily have joined, but this was a quick visit, plus whoever heard of doing crazy things like talking to strangers in pubs?!
A pretty ordinary half pint of Hogsback 'T.E.A' finished, we moved on quickly to catch a bus.
The number 33 took us on a touristic route through the housing estates of Tilehurst.
Bus fatigue was setting in as we caught another from the centre, southbound to the village of Shinfield.

PUB 14: Magpie & Parrot (Arborfield Road, Shinfield, RG2 9EA)

Strange things you find in pubs

The Ale Trail had promised to throw up somewhere a little different in its selection of pubs.  And the Magpie and Parrot was just that.
Located just off to the edge of the village, this is a roadside country house, with the bar housed in the extension to it's right. It is a fantastically quirky place  with two small rooms, filled to the rafters with a treasure trove of odd decorations.  On one side of the fireplace the pub dog is curled up in an armchair, to the other side the landlady is sitting reading her Stephen King paperback.
There's a framed long-service award stating that she's been doing this for 35-years - running the pub that is.

The Magpie and Parrot has limited opening hours, serves food at lunchtimes only (with the exception of a popular Friday evening fish supper) and just features the one hand-pull on the bar serving up Fullers 'London Pride'. But this was well kept and an enjoyable pint in a pub that I really liked. 

It's a dogs life...  The Magpie and Parrot, Shinfield

With ten pubs remaining on the Ale Trail, we called it a day and caught the train back to Oxford.  The Pint Shop on George Street was closing on this evening, so we made an effort to get back there for a last visit.
More Ale Trailing next week...

What's My Age Again?

On a short afternoon visit to my home town of Nottingham, I had the chance to call into one pub for a pint and a spot of lunch.  So I decided to head back to a heritage classic:
Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem (Brewhouse Yard 1, Nottingham, NG1 6AD - website)

Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, Nottingham

Stepping inside the pub, the first room encountered is the Ward room, named after the family who owned the inn between 1894 and 1989.  It's one of the most unique pub rooms in the country, burrowing into the sandstone rock.
The handful of tables in this room are popular, and despite us arriving early families and pushchairs had settled there scuppering my attempt to photograph it.  So you get a dull shot of a sign over a door instead...

Vaguely Historical Bit...

During the Crusades (silly fighting over the Holy Lands in the 12th century - something we've of course sorted out in this civilised day and age) Richard the Lionheart made use of Nottingham Castle and legend has it that  knights on the way to the third crusade gathered there.  And naturally stopped off at the inn at the foot of the rocks beneath it.
The date painted on the side of the pub, 1189, is the year that Richard ascended the throne,
rather than a year that anyone can determine the pub originating.

Nottingham Castle sits on the rock above the pub and originally dates back to 1068.  Archaeological digs have shown that the caves were used extensively at this time and it appears that brewing took place in the spot where the Trip now stands, adding some credence to the historic claims. 
But what we don't know for sure is if any kind of inn existed in these early years.  The buildings as we know them today are a 17th century affair, dating to around 1650, although historical maps show an earlier building on the site.  The name Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem was first recorded in 1799.

We settled on a table in Yorkey's Lounge.  This room lies in the front section of the current building with a large oak beam stretching across an uneven ceiling propped up by a central iron post.
Just beyond this, through a doorway next to the fireplace is a small room called the Haunted Snug.
On our visit it seemed to be hosting some sort of meeting, with a procession of retired gents passing our table and struggling through the awkward door.  The majority of them also managed to trip over the raised hearth in front of the fire, proclaiming that it's moved since they were last here. 

Yorkey's Lounge, Ye Old Trip to Jerusalem

Up a small flight of stairs from the bar you'll find the Rock Lounge.  This room is also carved out of the sandstone rocks, although unlike the truly cave-like room downstairs, this feels like a more modern undertaking. 
This room contains the cursed galleon.  The only people who've set about cleaning this are said to have met mysterious deaths. As a consequence it has been put in a glass case and has been gathering dust, untouched for the past 50 years.

The Rock Lounge, Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem

Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem is an essential stop if you're visiting Nottingham.  Both pub and tourist attraction.  It's now owned by Greene King, but you wouldn't initially guess it from the range of ales on offer - on my visit there was a run of five hand-pulls on the first section of the bar featuring local breweries, with Lincoln Green, Nottingham Brewery and Shipstone's beers available.  There is also a beer named after pub, the widely-available 'Olde Trip Bitter' originally brewed by Hardy & Hansons.  This is on the bar here, and where better to have one?

There are a lot of pubs and bars that I need to come and visit/re-visit in Nottingham.  Today, with my mum in tow, I couldn't undertake a mammoth pub crawl (she only does those on a Thursday, after skittles).

So instead we explored the city that was her home-town and has changed a lot in the years since she's last been here.

Nottingham Market Square - "they've made a right mess of it" according to my mum, who liked the old fountains.

Later that evening we found ourselves staying in a village north of Nottingham and I'd picked the nearby Old Green Dragon (Blind Lane,Oxton,NG25 0SS) to call in to.

If I was doing something completely bonkers like trying to go to all of the Good Beer Guide listed pubs in the country, I'd be declaring this a 'pre-emptive tick'.

The pub has won Nottingham CAMRA's 2018 Village Pub of the Year award.

Solid line-up.  Transparent pricing. 

The Green Dragon is owned by Dave Brett who founded Way Ahead Records, a ticket agency and shop where I spent a lot of money on dubious metal CDs at the end of the eighties. 
A regular in the pub, he watched it being sold to property developers a few years ago.  But when the development company went bust he brought it himself and set about returning it to a simple village local.
There is one main bar with a giant TV, then two more lounge-like rooms leading off this.  To the rear is a restaurant, closed on our visit, with Monday and Tuesday being the chefs' days off.  But they brought around free slices of pizza, which was much appreciated.
And what a great drinks range for a village pub - craft keg lines, three real ciders and five cask ales, offering beer from local breweries.
I hadn't expected to find a pub like this near where we were staying, so the Old Green Dragon proved a pleasant surprise for the end of the day.