Festive pubbing in Shaldon and Dawlish

Twas the last Friday before Christmas when we made a few stops along the south Devon coast from Shaldon to Exeter.

Traveling along one of the most scenic bits of railway in the country, we hopped off at Teignmouth station, then set off on foot to Shaldon.
It's 28-minutes walk from Teignmouth to Shaldon, not the 15-minutes I'd fraudulently promised
Mrs PropUptheBar. 
"There's more stuff in the way than I thought", I said by way of an excuse.
"Yes.  The sea."

You're almost touching distance from the most westerly point of Teignmouth, from where you can catch a ferry on a fair-weather day.  We - of course - went on a day with wickedly high winds curtailing ferries.

So, across the road bridge we headed, then through the charming narrow streets of the fishing village as we made our way to the Ferry Boat Inn...

Ferry Boat Inn (The Strand, Shaldon, TQ14 0DL)
A handwritten sign warned 'Drinks Only' which explained why there were only half a dozen in - I suspect the weekday lunchtime trade in Shaldon in winter-time are mostly looking for a bite to eat.
Come in the warmer months of the year and you can accompany your Doom Bar with food from the Garden Grill - the riverside seating is superb, but not in gale force winds. 

From a choice of three cask ales, I picked the local Teignmouth Brewery 'Deck Hand' a reasonable and well-kept 4.5% golden ale.
The best seat by the fire had been taken, so we sat at the end of the bar, 'Last Christmas' part of wall-to-wall seasonal music.

 

It turns out we needed food ourselves, which led to us investigating the eating options in the village.   We ended up in the London Inn, which had a place in the beer-guide in '20 and '21, Shaldon enjoying revolving entries over the past few years. 

The London Inn (The Green, Shaldon, TQ14 0DN)
There's a dining room to the left and bar to the right, although pretty much the whole bar was taken up by folks eating, so not really a place to settle for a lunchtime drinking session.
The cask choice was St Austell 'Tribute' or Otter, the 'Otter Bitter' badged as a house beer. Not a bad pint - doing a good job of washing down a hefty portion of winter veg pie and mash. 
Hefty price tag too, but not as much as the Tomahawk Steak...

Leaving the pub, there was no let-up in the windy weather, hence still no ferry and a trek back to the station. We caught the next train one stop to the coastal town of Dawlish.

During Oxford Beer Festival, I told one of the CAMRA folks that I'd been attempting to tick off all the beer guide pubs in Devon.
"Don't bother with Dawlish," he replied, kinda missing the point of 'complete'.

But I figured he may have a point and that these were unlikely to be pubs offering exotic craft beers for Mrs PropUptheBar.
I knew she'd be happy as long as we she saw the black swans...

The first of the two current GBG ticks involved a short walk along Dawlish Water, through a park and some narrow lanes, beyond the tourists and the fudge shops to the older part of town. 

The Swan Inn (94 Old Town Street, Dawlish, EX7 9AT)
The Swan proved to be a cracking basic locals pub with two rooms, although the lights were off in the back room which we didn't get a chance to see.
The front room had bench seating on two sides, fireplace facing the bar, a grand total of three tables, pub quiz at 7, darts board in a corner.

A handful of cheery locals sat at one table, one of them with his cans of Coors lined up.  I couldn't help pondering if he'd brought these with him or if they kept a 4-pack in the fridge for the fella because he rates canned Coors above the keg lagers available??

The Teignmouth 'Portside' suited me fine, the other cask option being more St Austell 'Tribute'.

"Mind the steps", the locals warned us as we left, suggesting the immediate downward drop beyond the door has caught out one or two visitors.  More to the point, watch out for the van racing along the road with no pavement at the bottom of the steps.  One more stride into the road and I'd never be completing all those Devon beer guide pubs.

Heading back towards the seafront, our second pub faced the ducks on the water, the bowling club, and green parkland.

The Brunswick Arms (9-10 Brunswick Place, Dawlish, EX7 9PB)
This is a Heavitree House, which in my limited experience means a proper boozer with fizzy pints being knocked back at a rate of knots, although whatpub claims it to be 'family orientated'.
Not on our visit, as we had to squeeze through the folks in the front part of the pub - spirits high as we'd crept past acceptable knocking-off time on the last working weekday before Christmas.
Reminding us of the time of year, we entered to Chris Rea's festive hit, pleasingly at a low volume that was barely audible over the chatter. 

Cask hand pumps were relegated to the quieter back section of the bar - 'Doom Bar', 'Jail Ale', Otter 'Bitter', Hanlon's 'Yellow Hammer' - all of which I shunned for the cask 6% Sandford's Orchard cider.  

 

Heading out into the dusk, we made our way to the next train back to Exeter.
I've explored to the pubs of Exeter pretty extensively, but opening hours have always led to the Exeter Brewery Tap eluding me.  I just happened to have timed it just right this time...

Exeter Brewery Tap (Unit 1, Cowley Bridge Road, Exeter, EX4 4NX)
The brewery is located in a red-brick building adjacent to the train lines, five minutes walk from St David's station, the final approach through a dark gravel car park with the challenge of avoiding the big puddles in the potholes.
With limited opening, and signs pointing you down a corridor past the brewing kit, I figured this may be a brewery tap of the basic variety.  But the bar turned out to be a fairly big room with bench seating, old pics and breweriana on the wall and quite a pub-like feel to it. 

Someone's got carried away with the Christmas outfit..

The four cask beers available were 'Avocet', 'Ferryman', 'Fall's Over' and 'Lighterman', so nothing unusual with all these being easily found in this part of the world.  But you get to drink it a few meters away from where it's created and I couldn't deny I had a superb pint of 'Falls Over'.

It took a visit to the Imperial (very busy, far too many Christmas jumpers) to get the Exeter Brewery Christmas beer (the Santa's Sack at the top of the post).

Then as luck would have it, we just missed our bus, which meant that Mrs PropUptheBar had no choice but to partake in some craft beer in the Cuckoo Taproom to end the evening.
A good nightcap for a good day out on the south coast. 

Chorley Pub Explorations

Chorley is a town that unexpectedly became a bit of a pub crawl hotspot, with a raft of micros opening up and the publication of an Ale Trail leaflet.

I am - as usual - arriving after everyone else has visited and written about it.
I really need to work on getting ahead of the game - the Didcot Discerning Drinkers Ale Trail?

We started off in the market where Mrs PropUptheBar was briefly distracted by the bag stall, then by trying to get me to buy a fluffy-lined body warmer because I'd dressed inappropriately for the cold weather.

To the side of the market was our first stop of the day at the Bob Inn.

The Bob Inn (24 Market Place, Chorley, PR7 1DA)
The bar is genuinely 'micro' and is located in the stalls at the edge of the market, with plenty of undercover - but still outdoor - seating to the side. 
Heck, it was cold.  Perhaps I really did need that body warmer.

Pre-noon drinking

Three cask beers on the bar were all from Milestone Brewery, my pick being the 'Black Pearl' stout.
Around five folks were stood next to the counter which pretty much filled it up.  To the side is a basic room with a cushioned wooden bench around it and dish washer in the corner, presumably there not being enough space behind the bar for this.  You could go one step further than returning your glasses here and actually stick 'em in the washer.

Moving on from the market we made our way to the Shepherd's Ale House.
In a lovely building, next to the bus station, which would have benefited from a blue-sky background.
And would also benefit from some sabotaging of the dominant Chorley Fitness signage.

Shepherd's Hall Ale House & Victoria Rooms (63-67 Chapel Street, Chorley, PR7 1BS)
When the Shepherd's Hall Ale House originally opened in 2014, it was just a small micro pub housed in a one-time newsagents at number 67.
The Victoria Rooms is the bit behind the curved windows, formerly another shop, which the bar was extended into in December 2021.

The taproom was busy with locals sat around the bar blocking the view of the pump clips.  But all we needed to see was something called 'Fudge!', with an exclamation mark, and we were sold.
If Fudge! didn't take your fancy (to be fair, it smelt better than it tasted) other beers covered styles to suit everyone from brweries 4Ts, Anarchy, Allendale, and Phoenix. 

The Victoria Rooms came as quite a contrast to the taproom.  Mrs PropUptheBar threatened not to leave her seat next to the heater for the rest of the day, but I suspect she'd have tired of the 80's soundtrack before too long: Steve Winwood, Spandau Ballet, and Tears for Fears had me feeling nostalgic. 

Our onward route took us past the bus station and under the railway lines to the Malt 'n' Hops.
Uh-oh, what's going on with that chunk of wood on the corner and builders tarp where the pub signage should be?
We worried for a moment that it might not be open.

The Malt 'n' Hops (50-52 Friday Street, Chorley, PR6 0AA)
No such fears as we tried the door and found a good couple of dozen folk in on a Saturday lunchtime, spread throughout the L-shaped room.

Ah, finally a proper old pub, I thought.  Except I'd be wrong.  This is an 1870's building which used to be a greengrocers prior to being converted to a pub in 1989.

There were nine cask ales, annoyingly in two banks of hand pumps either side of the bar.  Too much choice...I eventually plumped for the Lancashire pale ale 'Off T' Mill' from Darwen brewery Hopstar.
Accompanied by a cheese & onion cob, competitively priced at £1.

As the grey clouds began to produce the rain that had been threatening all day, we made a brisk stroll back into shopping centre.
I briefly stopped to admire the Baptist Chapel converted into a record store...

Before the rain drove us into Riley's for shelter.

Riley's Taproom and Wine Bar (Victoria Buildings, 4 Cleveland Street, Chorley, PR7 1BH)
Our second converted greengrocers in a row - this used to be called Fresh and Fruity - how did they end up closing down with such a great name?
The premises were snapped up by husband and wife team, Michael and Jules Riley, who opened this smart bar in 2021. 

We'd moved up a notch here - wine list and candle on a table that we could only spend 40 minutes at as it was reserved for 3pm.  The folk of Chorley were out in force to enjoy cocktails and craft beer at Riley's.
With a limited time on the table I would have been wise to pick something I could drink quickly.
Mmmm...Woodside 'Overtone' 11.5% smoked imperial stout.  Doh!

An absolutely glorious stout, warming the cockles for the short walk around the corner to Ben's Tap & Bottleshop...

Ben's Tap (2 Market Place, Chorley, PR7 1DA)
We were pretty much back where we started, with the Bob Inn visible across the pedestrian street from the window seat of Ben's.
This is a relatively new addition to Chorley's ale trail, having opened in March 2022.

Formerly a cafe, it's a simple rectangular room with large bar taking up the back wall and a staircase leading to a solitary silly table on the first floor next to the loos.

Ben's Brewery beers were racked up behind the bar, with 5 available alongside a guest from Deeply Vale.
Looking for something trad and at a sensible strength, I picked the enjoyable Ben's Brewery 'The Duke' 4.3% bitter and sipped it whilst enjoying a bit of Premier League footy on the big TVs.

Finally, we were moving on to a proper pub - one that appeared in the 1974 Good Beer Guide, albeit under a different name.

Flat Iron (21 Cleveland Street, Chorley, PR7 1BH)
Previously the Market Tavern, this featured in the inaugural Good Beer Guide, although I guess it's changed a bit since then.

Just look at the bar - smart symmetrical shelving full of colourful bottles, white tiling, and staff in shirt, tie, and apron combo. 

It looks every bit the trendy town pub, and yet the customers were proper pub punters, shouting at the rugby league match on TV, hanging around the doorway smoking, and delivering some 18 certificate banter whilst putting the world to rights.

The beer line-up on the bar made for a good choice - 2 from Ossett, a Reedly Hallows blonde, Stockport 'Ginger Tinge', and - my pick of the bunch - Hophurst 'Porteresque'
A sweet, milky porter from a Greater Manchester brewery, on good form.

We just had one more stop to make on the way to the train station...

Ale Station (60 Chapel Street, Chorley, PR7 1BS)
I'm afraid I just couldn't get comfortable in the Ale Station, even though they delivered a cracking 80's power ballads and hair rock soundtrack including Heart 'Alone', Bonnie Tyler 'Total Eclipse of the Heart, and Europe's 'The Final Countdown'.  Oh yes.

Perhaps the discomfort was down to the seats being a little too close together for my liking - not to mention the gents WC which would need users to master some nimble moves to get as many people in there as there were facilities.

Or perhaps I was disenchanted by a reduced beer choice, with many unused pumps leaving a choice of green hop ale from Merseyside brewer Rock the Boat, Hawkshead bitter, or Holt's Bitter.

But I probably wasn't comfortable because I couldn't stop watching the electronic board with train times displayed on it.
Our train was getting delayed by another minute every time I glanced at the screen.

The train came eventually and got us back to Preston in time for tea in the Continental.

I'm not really sure I did Chorley justice on this afternoon visit, but it's certainly somewhere with a great choice of beers and pubs in close proximity.  And that'll do me.

Lancaster Pub Explorations

I arrived by train in Lancaster just before midday, greeted by some unexpected blue skies that wouldn't last.
But the weather did tempt me into a diversion to the castle, looking good in the sunshine with autumnal trees in front of it.  I completed a bit of minimalist tourism wandering around the courtyard and reading the placards in the small exhibition about the Pendle Witches.  It would have been ideally followed up by a pint of Moorhouse 'Pendle Witches Brew', but I failed to find that on my travels throughout the day.

The first place those travels took me was just north of the centre on the way to the River Lune.

The Three Mariners (Bridge Lane, Lancaster, LA1 1EE)
Old wooden beams, dim lighting, excessive cushions, super-quiet music.
Claiming to be the oldest pub in town, this is very much the modernised historic inn, politely refurbished to appeal to the gastro crowd.

It would have once been part of a run of similar buildings lining a cobbled street to the port, but now stands back from the road with the cobbles housing picnic benches for those braving the chill.

Beers available were Robbinsons 'Unicorn' or Dizzy Blonde, Oakham 'Citra', Mobberley Brew House 'Chinook, Hawkshead 'Bitter' and three more around the corner that I didn't spot when standing at the bar.

The Mariners was surprisingly busy for just after midday, leaving me with the last small table in the corner on which to sip a respectable pint of 'Unicorn'.

Back in the bustling shopping streets, down an alleyway near the market square, is Jimmy's tap house where I made the young staff member jump by somehow sneaking in silently whilst she was concentrated on artistically updating the blackboards.

Jimmy's Tap House (10 Slip Inn Lane, Lancaster, LA1 1JT)
This small craft bar opened in December '21 in a former gym premises.
The tap list is displayed at a neck-craning angle on the underside of the staircase to an additional first floor seating area.  Five keg beers, several ciders, and two cask hand pumps hidden in the furthest reaches of the bar.

From the casks (Cross Bay 'Zenith' and Lord's 'Phat Tony') I picked the one I hadn't heard of - Lord's Brewing Co being from Huddersfield.
Then spent the rest of my visit trying to work out if the beer was in dubious condition or was supposed to taste like this.  I needed a beer sommelier with me.

Decent soundtrack of Cage the Elephant and the Arctic Monkeys though, in a place that's probably a lot more fun with a crowd of folk in of an evening time. 

A walk south took me to the Lancaster Canal and the impressively located Water Witch.
Note the blue sky replaced by ominous clouds.

The Water Witch (Tow Path, Aldcliffe Lane, Lancaster, LA1 1SU) 
The chill in the air and rapidly disappearing sunshine left the waterside benches empty at the Water Witch, which was doing a reasonable lunchtime trade inside.
It's long and narrow with several distinct areas, obviously a popular spot for eating.  
A fair few canine visitors as well, the greyhound not looking overly convinced that it wants to be in the pub blog picture...  

'He was first' said the nice lady waiting at the food order point when the barman reappeared.
Ah, don't worry, says I, instantly regretting it when she launched into a super-complicated order.
At least it gave me plenty of time to pick from the four cask ales - I went with a very enjoyable Kirkby Lonsdale 'Devil's Bridge IPA'.

I sat near the bar, big picture-window to my left providing views of the canal and narrowboat outside, whilst a horribly bland playlist streamed out the speakers.
My quick Shazam to see what this horror was revealed Carl Anderson's 'Ocean'.  Who? 

Music aside, I thoroughly enjoyed the Water Witch, its business increasing when a posse of muddy booted ramblers made their way in.  But there was more to explore in Lancaster, which required me to trek back into the central thoroughfares.

Cornerhouse (15 New Street, Lancaster, LA1 1EG)
I confess that I stepped inside here on the way to the Three Mariners, took one look at the empty bar, and moved on to double-check I'd got the right place.
It didn't look much like a Good Beer Guide entry.

The clock had ticked on into mid-afternoon territory by the time I returned but it was still quiet.
A few folk in the restaurant section and several taking their pints of lager onto the outdoor seating in the archways of the undeniably impressive building.

It's an old department store, transformed into a bar, with their latest refurbishment being back in 2018.
They certainly didn't go for the 'proper pub' blueprint, as evidenced by the lighting and enormo-chair in the pictures below...

 

Three cask ales on offer came from local brewers: Bowland, Cross Bay and Kirkby Lonsdale.  I opted for the Bowland 'Hen Harrier' golden ale.  Was it such amazing quality that the listing of this bar in the beer guide suddenly made perfect sense.  Um, no, not really.

My next destination wasn't in the beer guide - I'd passed the Stonewell Tap a little early in the day before it opened and figured it was worth popping my head in.

Stonewell Tap (8 Lower Church Street, Lancaster, LA1 1NP)
This bar oddly stretches across two distinctly different buildings, one of which was a 19th century pub called the White Horse.  More recently it's been the Stonewell Tavern with a much more traditional frontage, prior to being re-branded a tap as craft ale crept into Lancaster whilst no-one was looking.

And so it was that I skipped the hand pumps and set about the tricky task of picking from the list of 16 beer lines, plumping for a Northern Monk 'Mango Lassi/Heathen 2023 IPA'.

The afternoon was quickly racing past and I needed to start heading back towards the station.
Handily en-route is this place...

Jailor's Barrel (64 Market Street, Lancaster, LA1 1HP)
This was converted from a shop in 2007, the bar previously being called the Robert Gillow to confuse pub tickers.  It's a smart place, with lots of brown leather cushioned high stools, sections of old stone wall, and a mustard coloured ceiling.

Real ale came from Lancaster Brewery and Cumbrian Ales with the other hand pumps 'Awaiting Perfection'.  I picked a fine Lancaster 'Hay-Maker'.

Just five more minutes down the road to the train station - it was one of those occasions on which I rather hoped the trains wouldn't be running to schedule.

Of course they weren't - so into Tite & Locke on platform 1 it is then.

Tite & Locke (Lancaster Railway Station, Meeting House Lane, Lancaster, LA1 5NW)
This station pub is run by Lancaster Brewery, whose taproom I would have ventured out to if only I'd had more time.
The Tite & Locke is named after the architect of Lancaster station (Tite) and the engineer who oversaw the building of the Lancashire to Carlisle railway (that'll be Locke).

There are three rooms alongside the bar - named 1st, 2nd and 3rd class waiting rooms - and decorated by the mandatory railway station pub memorabilia of old posters, signs and maps.

They had a nice way of advertising the beers on offer..

I just needed to pick something sensible before catching the train.
Uh-oh, one of those A4 bits of paper featured Kirkstall 'Double Drophammer', a 12% imperial stout which was shouting out at me.

It was a lovely decadent impy stout. Just a pity that the train wasn't delayed a little bit longer and I had to neck it faster than was strictly sensible.