A Well-Deserved Pint in the Priory

 

Wrapping up our long weekend in Wales, here's one final post which covers...

⮞ A walk up a hill
⮞ A bar in the 13th century crypt of an Augustinian priory
⮞ Castle ruins - although not the most spectacular you'll ever see
⮞ A micro pub
⮞ And bell pushes in an ancient hotel

On a glorious sunny Spring morning, we made our way up the Vale of Ewyas to the hamlet of Llanthony

This is a bit of a tourist hotspot, with the hills looming on either side and the atmospheric ruins of the priory to wander around.

I was smugly satisfied to get the last spot in the free car park, saving a whole £1 that the hotel charges to park in their neighbouring field.
We laced up the hiking boots and set out on a footpath up the hill toward Bāl Bach.
Wasn't that a song on the Pixies first album after reforming?  Not one of their most melodic numbers to hum on the way up the hill, though.

Our route took us a little higher along the ridgeway following the Cambrian Way, until we dropped back down into the valley.
We did get lost on the hillside, had a precarious scramble, and scared some sheep.  But I don't need to tell anyone about that bit. 

Sadly, the GBG-listed Hunters Moon pub, back down in Llanthony, has been closed since March.
There was an alternative for a much-deserved pint and a spot of lunch, as the Priory Hotel has a cellar bar....

This is accessed through the grounds of the Priory ruins, making for a wonderful setting.

Priory Hotel Cellar Bar (Mill Farm, Llanthony, NP7 7NN - web)
The more modern buildings on the site which have become the hotel were constructed in the 1800's.  But the cellar beneath them was once part of the 12th century Augustinian monastery.  Under the vaulted ceiling is a fantastically busy bar counter with expansive display of cakes and biscuits, and three handpumps hidden behind the confectionery.
I picked the 'Blorendge' golden ale, brewed by Tudor Brewery from Llanhilleth, a crisp, bitter beer that hit the spot.

We managed to get the last table (and there aren't many of them) and ordered some home-cooked food to replenish all that energy lost walking up the hill.
Llanthony would be intriguing of an evening once the day trippers have departed.  The hotel promotes itself as being a real getaway, with no phone signals, TV's, or wi-fi.  Could I cope? - sadly, no, probably not.

Later than day, we found our way to the Powys market town of Crickhowell.  This is a pleasant little place, rising above the River Usk, home to just over 2,000 people and 5 open pubs, if I'm counting right.
We went to look at the castle which didn't take very long as there's not much of it left.

Then strolled to the High Street to find the micro pub.

Treebeard's Bar (54 High Street, Crickhowell, NP8 1BH)
Treebeard's had been closed over lunch for a wedding party, the last remnants of which were still in evidence when we rocked up at 4pm.
A micro, opened a couple of years ago, it consists of one single room and a roadside seating area where you can admire the market hall and its fine jubilee clock across the road.

Beers were served straight from the barrel, with a choice of three local ales available.
I picked an enjoyable pale ale: 'UPA', from Raglan's Untapped Brewing Co.

 

A quick trip to check out the micro pub choice of WC artwork...

Then it was time to move on.
Not far - just across the road junction is the town's second Beer Guide entry, looking very photogenic in the late afternoon sunshine...

The Bear Hotel (High Street, Crickhowell, NP8 1BW - web)
There's reportedly been an inn here since 1432, with the current Grade II listed building dating back to the mid-18th century.
It's a grand eye-catching coaching inn, with archway to the side leading through to what would once have been stables.
Stepping through the front-door evokes a feeling of being in a different era.  There's an old telephone booth adjacent to the entrance, wooden beams, trad fireplaces and fifty shades of brown.

And it's almost completely empty, bar a few gentlefolk taking afternoon tea in the window seat.  Nobody at the bar either, which gives us lots of time to make a decision of whether to have the Evan Evans 'Cwrw', Wadworth 'Kings Ale' Tim Tayor 'Landlord', or Brains 'Rev James'.

An old coaching inn like this should surely have some great ghost stories attached to it.  But they've been superseded with tales of celebrity guests on Wiki - apparently Robbie Williams stayed here in the 90's whilst recording his debut solo LP, and Johnny Depp popped in in 2004 when he was filming nearby.

We were sat by some old bell pushes once used for hotel guests to call to be waited upon.
I had to look up what an ostler is.

We sunk into a low comfy seat, realised that those normally little used muscles ached after walking up a hill, and that it might be quite difficult to get back up again.
But worth it for a lovely day of walking, sightseeing and supping fine ales in three very different pubs.

Abergavenny Pub Explorations

In which we spend two evenings of the Bank Holiday weekend exploring a handful of pubs in the Monmouthshire town of Abergavenny.

But let's start in Llanfoist, on the southern side of the bridge over the river Usk, as this is where our Premier Inn was located and provided the first refreshment stop... 

Bridge Inn (Merthyr Road, Llanfoist, NP7 9LH - web)
The Bridge was a cosy L-shaped pub, with the locals settled on the tables opposite the bar and some uptake for the almost - but not quite - riverside garden, now that the sunshine had made an appearance.
Real ales on offer were Glamorgan 'Jermimas Pitchfork', Hancocks 'HB', and Wye Valley 'Butty Bach', which seems to get everywhere around these parts.
The trad HB for me - very much a boring brown bitter - but well-kept and easy-drinking.

We grabbed a table at the far end of the bar, down a couple of steps, beyond the balustrade which doubled as a climbing frame for one of the younger pub regulars.
There was a nice mixed crowd here, from the bloke reading his very serious book, to the son  converting his mum from white wine to Madri whilst her husband was distracted by the dog at the next table.

The Bridge is ideal for Abergavenny Premier Inn guests who've shunned the Brewer's Fayre, but decided it's too far to walk to the town centre.
But we had exploring to do.  We crossed the river and navigated through the terraced side streets of Abergavenny until we reached a pub that I'd been looking forward to...

Station Hotel (37 Brecon Road, Abergavenny, NP7 5UH)
This is a station hotel without a station, and across the road is the Railway Inn without a railway.  Both are named after the long-gone Heads of the Valley line and the one-time Brecon Road station.

The Station Hotel is a basic two-roomer, although the trepidation of which way to turn in the front porch is taken away, as there's only one way in.  The right-side lounge is reached via a route around the back of the bar.

There were several real ales available - probably including Butty Bach - but all I remember is this...

Mrs PropUptheBar had come to the realisation that craft beer hadn't reached Monmouthshire.  But even deprived of her pudding stouts mango sours for the weekend, she declared the Bass to be "lovely".

Moving on from the Station, we walked a short way down the road and found our way to Grofield, Baker Street...

Grofield (Baker Street, Abergavenny, NP7 5BB - web)
Hmmm...this was something of an unusual Good Beer Guide entry.
On the plus side - nice garden to the rear and outdoor gents (albeit of the shiny and sparkling variety).
On the downside - the pub has had a stark modern makeover and I maintain my opinion that leather padding on the front of the bar is never a good sign.
And it was fiendishly hot - they must be on a great energy tariff here, as the heating was on a 'sit in your underpants' setting.

Two handpumps at the side of the bar were offering up Sharps 'Atlantic' or 'Doom Bar'.
I took my Atlantic (so-so) to the raised area to the side of the front door.  And nothing much happened for the next 30-minutes, although there seemed to be a fair number of regulars who all knew each other and obviously favoured this place as their local.

That was our lot for the first evening - walking through the muddy fields all the afternoon had worn me out.  Leaping forward to Sunday evening, we headed back into town to continue our explorations.

Just up a pedestrianised lane to the side of the Town Hall, we found the Hen & Chickens in full swing, with all the picnic tables out front occupied and the sounds of fiddle and guitar drifting out from the open door.

Hen & Chickens (7 Flannel Street, Abergavenny, NP7 5EG - web)
I'm approaching the Hen & Chickens with an open-mind having not previously visited.  Many folk are irked by the changes made in the late nineties when Brains brought the pub and refurbished it, including extending into a former hairdressers next door to create more space.

There were plenty of hand pumps on the bar, but still no craft beer for Mrs PropUptheBar, unless you're counting Brains 'Barry Island' on keg.  There were a couple of staple Marston's choices and four Brains ales to choose from, including a most enjoyable 'Dark' for me.

We could pick the quiet seats in the snug to the rear...

Or the noisy ones in the side room...

The band were called 'Rattled' and they knocked out a range of folksy covers on guitar, violin and box drum, peaking with the Waterboy's 'Whole of the Moon' and Tom Petty's 'Free Falling'.  Much enthusiasm from the crowd, including a little jig from the aging Welsh Hells Angel, and some heckling from the ladies on the table next to us who looked to have put a sizable dent in the pub's Prosecco supplies.

Next up: the town's 'Spoons because we needed some no-nonsense food.
And because I'm a sucker for a cinema conversion.

The Coliseum (Lion Street, Abergavenny, NP7 5PH - web)
This opened remarkably early as a cinema in 1913.  By 1930 it had had a refurbishment to increase capacity to 780 and install a sound system for the new 'talkies'.
The Colisuem was a victim of home video, attendances declining until the stalls were converted into shops in 1987, the upper floor continuing to show films for a few more years until bingo took over.  And then, in 2001, along came JD Wetherspoon and their carpets...

To be honest, apart from the sweeping circular staircase leading from the entrance to the bar, the Coliseum doesn't feel much like a cinema conversion.  It's more barn-like, with a lot of people making a fair bit of noise.

The guest beer range was quiet limited and best bitter orientated, although I've no complaints about my enjoyable pint of Great Newsome 'Frothingham Best'.

Where to next?
As we'd walked into town it had been impossible not to notice the Kings Arms, with a large crowd of drinkers spread out onto the market square in front of it.  So we figured we'd go and see what all the fuss was about.

The Kings Arms Hotel (50-60 Cross Street, Abergavenny, NP7 5EU - web)
This provided our second pub band of the evening, set up on the pavement outside and entertaining the crowd with a varied selection of pop and rock covers.
It was fairly characterful inside, with wooden beams and a traditional feel, although not much uptake on the tables with most folk opting to spread across the square.
Bit of frustration that the Bank Holiday crowd had produced a queue to the bar...

But the efficient staff meant it took just a little bit longer than the cover of Jon Bon Jovi's 'Wanted Dead or Alive' for us to get served.  We had a choice of 'Butty Bach' (of course!), Felinfoel 'Double Dragon', or Wye Valley 'HPA'.
An HPA for me, taken outside and enjoyed on a rare balmy evening, with the crowd and the band providing an entertaining hour in front of the Kings Arms.

And that was our lot as far as pub explorations of Abergavenny went.
Although there was still time to revisit the Station Inn and get another pint of Bass before last orders.

From the Skirrid Inn to the Hunter's Moon

"It rains in Wales", my mum warned me when I told her we were heading to the Black Mountains for a long weekend. And as I stood in the middle of a field with mud up to the ankles in a persistent downpour, I realised she was absolutely right. (She always is).

With the hilltops shrouded in cloud and the rain looking set-in for the day, we regrettably scrapped out plans to clamber over Skirrid Mountain and went straight to the Skirrid Mountain Inn for an early lunch instead.

Skirrid Mountain Inn (Hereford Road, Llanfihangel Crucorney, NP7 8DH - web)
Set back from the road beyond some cobblestones and picnic benches, the Skirrid Inn has a fantastically old chunky wooden door that looks the part for it's claim to be Wales' oldest pub.

This took us through into a grand main bar with high ceiling, enormous fireplace, and a couple of fine old high-backed benches amongst the more conventional furniture. 
To one side is a lobby area with the modern trappings of a flat-screen TV above the bar, and the wood-panelled Mountain Restaurant room beyond this.

Available on cask was Wye Valley 'Butty Bach' or 'HPA', with an unused handpump between them.  The Butty Bach was on good form and was so quaffable that I wondered how my glass had become empty so quickly.

Legend has it that there has been an inn on this site since 1110, making it one of the countries oldest.  As with all claimants to this title, it's tricky to verify.
The current building dates back to the mid-late 17th century and has an almost castle-like feel which gives it plenty of character. 

History

And when you claim to be one of the oldest pubs in the land it's obligatory to have a ghost story or two.
The main source of these at the Skirrid Inn surround the speculation that a first floor room was used as a courthouse, possibly presided over at one point by George Jeffrey's, the 'Hanging Judge', who conducted the trials of those accused of taking part in the Monmouth Rebellion.
A small store room midway up the staircase is said to be the old holding cell where many a soul spent the night awaiting their fate.  Supposedly over 180 people were hung at the Skirrid Inn, who've handily popped the rather macabre noose in the stairway to remind you of their grisly past.

Fueled by some filling & good-value pub fodder and Butty Bach, we decided to brave the weather and tackle the walk to the nearby Beer Guide pub in Llangattock Lingoed.

If I ever produce 'Prop Up the Bar's Prodigious Pub Walks' (which will contain ways to navigate Port Meadow to reach the Wolvercote pubs with your feet still dry), I doubt this will be included.
But perhaps I'm just negative about our walk because of the miserable weather.

We struggled over pop-up streams.
I dropped our map in the mud.
The sheep and horses looked at us like we were mad as we trudged across their fields.

Fields

The final straw that turned me into a full-on grumpy wet rambler was that those red dots between Pen-Rhos and Old Court weren't a navigable path at all.  Necessitating back-tracking on ourselves and the journey taking way longer than it should have.

I was relieved to finally arrive in Llangattock Lingoed - home to 171 folk, the charming whitewashed church of St Cadoc, and the Hunter's Moon Inn...

Hunter's Moon Inn (Llangattock Lingoed, NP7 8ER - web)
It may not lay claim to be the oldest inn in Wales, but the Hunter's Moon still traces it's origins back to 1217.  This was the  time that the village church was being built and it's believed an inn to accommodate and refresh the workmen was constructed at this time.
Enter through the front door and you're in the bar with it's stone-flagged floor, warming fireplace and four large tables.  It all gets a bit brighter and more modern through the archway to left where tables are set for dining.

I ordered myself a well-deserved pint of Wye Valley 'HPA' ('Butty Bach' and Grey Trees 'Diggers Gold' being the other options).
Then laid out the map on the table so I could look like a hardy walker and scowl at the people who arrived in the comfort of their over-sized cars.  That said, I'd have accepted a lift back if anyone was offering!

Hmmm... I wonder what effect taking on the 3½ Pint Boot challenge would have on my ability to tackle the footpaths and make it back to civilisation.
Surely I could beat Henry Drooper...

We did make it back.
And shortly after we finished walking the sun came out.
Which at least provided me with blue sky pictures in Abergavenny, which is next up on the blog.

A Greenwich to Deptford Pub Crawl

A bank holiday Sunday trip to the capital to explore a few bits of Greenwich and Deptford that I hadn't visited before.  The plan was to mix up a couple of traditional pubs with some modern bars and breweries.  And here's how it went...

Catching a Southeastern train from London Bridge, we hopped off at Maze Hill, the closest station to our first pub of the day.

Plume of Feathers (19 Park Vista, Greenwich, SE10 9LZ - web)
This attractive pub on a smart street at the bottom of Greenwich Park traces it's history back to 1691 when it would have been a coaching stop on the Dover Road.
The front of the pub is full of character, a square bar facing the entrance and looking out from each side onto cosy seating areas.  A handful of locals were settled in the window seat by the fireplace, although most of the punters had obviously been attracted by the Sunday lunch offering.

I ordered a Harvey's 'Sussex Best', in good nick, with Windsor & Eton 'Hurricane' or 'Windsor Knot' being the other cask options. 
Lovely pub, but I'd much rather visit outside of food service times.  Tables being at a premium, we perched on stools by the back bar, right next to where the staff trod on each others feet, broke the occasional wine glass, and stressed over juggling reservations, and who was going to take the payment from table seven.

There was, however, some interesting artwork in the WCs...

Mild smut in the gents - an ongoing series

Leaving the pub, we felt it only right to make a diversion through Greenwich Park to the observatory to take in the views over East London.
Crikey, it was busy. Thousands of folk seeming to be shuffling in a procession up the path to pose for pictures with Canary Wharf in the background.
We marched up to the top of hill, then we marched back down again. And through the side-streets to this gem of a pub...

Morden Arms (1 Broad Street, Greenwich, SE10 8SP)
'Without a pub sign or even name' says WhatPub, although they can't have been very good at looking up, as 'The Morden Arms' is in the brickwork on the parapet in the corner.
A one-time Courage pub, it's the kind of unspoilt ramshackle place that you don't find very often these days. One single room, with a bare wood floor, mismatched furniture and - quite honestly - the worst complimentary cheese and biscuit offering I've seen in a long time.

On the bar counter (with a great bit of artwork above it) were four hand pumps. Local ale from Brockley and Forest Road breweries, Doom Bar for the purists, or an Iron Pier 'Wealdway' IPA from Kent.
Poured by a grumpy fella who looked put-out by having to leave his seat and crossword to serve me. He gave me short shrift for not having seen the cash only signage, so it was fortunate I had real money in the wallet.

A blackboard advertised plenty of live music - the Magic City Trio arriving shortly after us to begin setting up in the corner.

A great soundtrack played in the meantime included Darondo's 'Luscious Lady' and Nolan Porter 'Keep on Keepin' on', before some more familiar Buzzcocks and Blondie.

I have to apologise to the dog in the picture below.
It took 5-minutes of staring at me like this before I realised he wasn't posing for a picture but wanted me to open the door for him... 

There were a fair few folks arriving for the afternoon music session and I felt a pang of guilt that we weren't sticking around to listen to the band.  But we still had four more stops on the itinerary to make and wanted to be on a homeward-bound bus at a sensible hour.

Crossing the Greenwich-Deptford boundary, we were heading to a brewery tap.
Footpaths alongside railway arches, bridges over partly redeveloped docklands, and Top Cat grafitti - sounds like the right way to a brewery tap.

Here it is...

Little Faith Taproom (Artworks, 3 Creekside, Deptford, SE8 4SA - web)
A little off the beaten track, Little Faith was short of custom on a Sunday afternoon.  Just a few folks in the covered courtyard at the side of the building, leaving us a with the bar to ourselves.
All the raucous noise was coming from the gravel car park across the road where there was either a private party in a portacabin or a secret brewery tap - we weren't bold enough to look closer.  And we were a week too late for the punk rock Sunday lunch at the fantastic looking Birds Nest pub on the corner.

Twelve taps dispensed beers from the likes of Anspach & Hobday, Lost & Grounded and Pressure Drop.
Just tap#1 offered one of Little Faith's own brews - 'New Colours', a 4.9% hazy pale.  £3 for a half of very easy-going murky craft, sat amongst a collection of old advertising signs, listening to 50's rock 'n' roll.

Mrs PropUptheBar had said we could go anywhere in London as long as it involved a brewery in a railway arch.  Her wish is my command...

Villages Taproom (Units 21-22 Resolution Way, Deptford, SE8 4NT - web)
Located just off Deptford High Street, the arches under the railway line contain eateries, a gym, fabric wholesalers, and the Villages brewery tap.
This was established in 2016 by brothers Archie and Louis Village, although they've recently sold the business to 52-degrees Brewing who also own Backyard and Grasshopper breweries.

The single arch with half-a-dozen big tables was much busier than my picture makes it look.  Shortly after we grabbed our seats it was full with a youthful crowd, a DJ spinning some interesting psych vinyl in the corner, gradually drowned out by the hum of conversation.

Surprisingly enough, Villages also offered a cask ale alongside eight tap beers.
Not only that, they'd built a shrine for it! 

The 'Full Bloom', a 4% hazy pale ale, was an easy-drinking flavoursome pint of murk, priced at under a fiver, and most enjoyable. 

We walked the short distance from the railway arches to the market yard, 
Running along one side of this is the 1835 carriage ramp which would have provided access to the platform level.  Now restored, the arches under this contain various street food options and Deptford is suddenly looking a whole lot hipper than I would have given it credit for.
At the far end of the market is SALT...

 

SALT Deptford (Unit 2, St Paul's House, 3 Market Yard, SE8 4BX - web)
A rectangular ground-floor unit in a modern block, this was previously Taproom SE8, run by Hop Stuff.  When they ceased trading in 2021 SALT stepped in to takeover their sites in Woolwich and Deptford, giving them a presence outside of their Yorkshire base.

The tap list contained five of their own beers alongside those from a few other well-known crafty brewers.
I have a bit of a gripe that our request for a smaller measure than 2/3 of a 7.5% saison was denied - really?  no thirds or halves?

My SALT 'Citra' did a fine job of washing down an enormous pizza, whilst around us the tables filled up with a good mixed crowd of folk.

Full of pizza, I realistically had no space left for more beer.  But that wouldn't stop me trying to squeeze one more half pint in.  
For this, we strolled up the High Street and into the housing estate on Prince Street to reach the Dog & Bell.

Dog & Bell (116 Prince Street, Deptford, SE8 3JD)
For a change we found ourselves somewhere not just busy, but really busy.
A large bar counter stretches through two rooms with several banks of hand pumps.  I didn't properly investigate what was on offer, finding a gap and ordering the beer that was in front of me - a quite acceptable 'Sugar Moon' from The Park Brewery, Kingston-on-Thames.

Rammed it may have been, but we did manage to get a comfy seat in a dimly lit rear room.

In the packed outdoor area in front of the pub, I never did find out why there was a man inside a column of leaves...

Just so long as Lord Summerisle doesn't turn up and set it alight.

Three traditional pubs & three modern venues for the murky craft connoisseur.
Being as I'd only decided which part of London to go to a few minutes before setting off for the bus, I was quietly chuffed about how the day had gone.