A second day in London, during which I wanted to tick off a Heritage pub, return to a Wetherspoon cinema conversion which is now under threat, and see whether it's possible to get on & off the Oxford tube bus without banging my head.
The switch from the grey skies and rain of the previous day to glorious winter sunshine had brought out the Christmas shoppers en-mass. A full bus and hefty traffic meant it was already lunchtime by the time I alighted at Marble Arch.
For a change, I wasn't the first person in the pub...
The switch from the grey skies and rain of the previous day to glorious winter sunshine had brought out the Christmas shoppers en-mass. A full bus and hefty traffic meant it was already lunchtime by the time I alighted at Marble Arch.
For a change, I wasn't the first person in the pub...
The early customers had settled themselves straight into the unusual wooden drinking compartments to the left side of the bar which make this Heritage Pub so unique.
The barman was busy with an order for six pints of Guinness - blimey, it takes a long time to pour Guinness, doesn't it?!
I waited my turn to order Tring's seasonal 'Tringle Bells' 4% ale, a dark fruity bitter on top form.
A wood panelled passageway runs alongside the boxed drinking areas to a small snug at the rear. Heading back to the front room I grabbed a comfy spot on the bench seating, admiring this lovely traditional pub as it began to fill up with a varied lunchtime crowd.
Right, where to next?
How about ticking off the two Good Beer Guide pubs that I'd never visited by Euston Station?
I spent over eight years living a few minutes walk from Euston, so it's been nagging me that I've never set foot in either the Exmouth Arms or Royal George. Back in the day I used to make my way straight to the Head of Steam (taken over by Fullers and renamed the Doric Arch) or the Bree Louise (flattened due to being inconveniently in the way of HS2).
The Exmouth Arms narrowly escaped that fate, with the building site fencing and hi-vis workmen now their next door neighbours.
How about ticking off the two Good Beer Guide pubs that I'd never visited by Euston Station?
I spent over eight years living a few minutes walk from Euston, so it's been nagging me that I've never set foot in either the Exmouth Arms or Royal George. Back in the day I used to make my way straight to the Head of Steam (taken over by Fullers and renamed the Doric Arch) or the Bree Louise (flattened due to being inconveniently in the way of HS2).
The Exmouth Arms narrowly escaped that fate, with the building site fencing and hi-vis workmen now their next door neighbours.
This turned out to be part of the Pub Love chain ('Beer, Burgers and Beds') which operate with backpacker hostels above the bar. That'll explain why I had to wait to be served whilst folks stored their luggage and asked lots of touristic questions.
I ordered a very average pint of Twickenham 'Session IPA' which the staff presented to me with a head taking up about a third of the glass.
"Is that alright?", they asked, somewhat sceptically.
Normally I stupidly say 'yes' to everything and complain about it later, but even I had to raise an eyebrow at this 'pint', a promise being made to come back and top it up in a moment.
The Exmouth Arms wasn't my cup of tea, but it was doing a decent trade - the customers tucking into their burgers seemed happy, so fair play to 'em.
Next!
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| The Royal George pub is designed to resemble the rear of Navy flagship the HMS Royal George, after which it's named. |
Taking a short-cut through the station to Eversholt Street, I just stopped for a swift Portobello 'Chestnut Pale' ale in this imposing 1930's pub.
Replacing an earlier public house, it was built by A.E Sewell for Truman, Hanbury & Buxton brewery.
This is somewhere that predictably attracts a transient crowd, with plenty of suitcases being wheeled in through the door and punters puzzled by pubs trying to form a queue at the bar.
Next on the agenda was a trip on the underground to Holloway Road.
The Coronet, a wonderful Wetherspoon cinema conversion, is on the list of the 39 pubs that the chain has put up for sale at the end of 2022, tempting me to revisit whilst I still can.
The Coronet, a wonderful Wetherspoon cinema conversion, is on the list of the 39 pubs that the chain has put up for sale at the end of 2022, tempting me to revisit whilst I still can.
Originally opened by Associated British Cinemas as the Savoy in 1940, this became the Coronet when it was leased to an independent company in 1979. A double-bill of Harrison Ford in Blade Runner and William Hurt in Body Heat provided the final chance for movie-goers to munch popcorn in the auditorium in June 1983. The front section became an amusement arcade, the rear a snooker hall, the old balcony hidden above a false ceiling a gathering place for Holloway's pigeons.
Sitting vacant from 1987 onward, it was eventually converted into a pub by JD Wetherpsoon, opening in March 1996.
Entering through the front doors there are staircases either side to the now inaccessible balcony, whilst several steps take you down to the bar and rows of tables.
The layout is more interesting to the rear, where an old cinema projector is on display.
The layout is more interesting to the rear, where an old cinema projector is on display.
Whilst I wouldn't call it busy, there was a good crowd spread throughout the Coronet on a Tuesday afternoon and it's hard to imagine this isn't a successful pub. Especially considering the bonus crowds each time Arsenal are at home. I guess it doesn't come cheap to run and maintain a building such as this, but it'll be such a shame to see it disappear as a Spoons.
Where will the Mexican-themed parties go for wallet-friendly burgers and Brooklyn lager?
Where will the Mexican-themed parties go for wallet-friendly burgers and Brooklyn lager?
Back along Holloway Road to Highbury and Islington station, I made my way to the Brewhouse and Kitchen - in another intriguing building which was originally a tram shed.
I'd only ever previously been to the London Brewhouse & Kitchen at Angel, which is currently closed for a refurbishment. The Highbury Corner branch was the chain's second in the capital, opening in June 2015.
Under the canopies housing outdoor seating is the entrance to the ground floor bar which stretches a fair way back to the brewing kit at the far end and a function room upstairs.
I enjoyed a decent half of whisky stout ("that's what everyone's picking at the moment", the barman told me, which you don't hear very often when ordering a cask ale).
The Lyric (37 Great Windmill Street, Soho, W1D 7LT - web)
The pub in it's current incarnation was built at the start of the 20th century, the most striking feature being the lovely curved frontage with etched glass, leading to a recessed entrance.
The blackboard advertises a fearsome amount of beers, although the majority of handpumps were not in use on my visit - more like 3 than 13...
As this was the festive season, I'll end the post with a collection of Christmas ale pump clips of the beers I'd picked over these couple of days in London.
Crikey, maybe I'm not quite as grumpy about Christmas as I thought I was.
I enjoyed a decent half of whisky stout ("that's what everyone's picking at the moment", the barman told me, which you don't hear very often when ordering a cask ale).
Leaving Highbury I traveled back on the underground towards the centre, making the admittedly foolhardy decision to get off at Oxford Circus late afternoon amidst Christmas shoppers.
But at least that meant I got to the see the impressive display of lights along Carnaby Street.
But at least that meant I got to the see the impressive display of lights along Carnaby Street.
I'd decided to call into one last pub in Soho prior to catching the bus home.
I'm never entirely sure where I have and haven't visited over the years in central London, but I came to the conclusion that the Lyric - at the southern edge of Soho by Shaftsbury Avenue - was a new tick for me...
I'm never entirely sure where I have and haven't visited over the years in central London, but I came to the conclusion that the Lyric - at the southern edge of Soho by Shaftsbury Avenue - was a new tick for me...
The pub in it's current incarnation was built at the start of the 20th century, the most striking feature being the lovely curved frontage with etched glass, leading to a recessed entrance.
The blackboard advertises a fearsome amount of beers, although the majority of handpumps were not in use on my visit - more like 3 than 13...
I picked the most unusual and least local of the cask ales on offer - a wonderful porter from Vale of Glamorgan Brewery - a fine choice to complete the day.
The Lyric was busy: standing room only. I just managed to get a place by the door with a ledge to place my pint and prop my elbow.
The Lyric was busy: standing room only. I just managed to get a place by the door with a ledge to place my pint and prop my elbow.
Great to see a busy pub - more of this kind of thing please!
Crikey, maybe I'm not quite as grumpy about Christmas as I thought I was.
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