Tuesday, 3 February 2026

Stratford Upon Avon Pub Explorations

For the first (very delayed - Blogger photo issues) post of 2026, we set out on a crisp cold January day to explore Stratford-Upon-Avon...not a renowned pubs and beer destination, although I think we did fairly well.

Stratford-Upon-Avon is, of course, the birthplace of historian George Macaulay Trevelyan, James Richton, the keyboardist from indie rave act The Klaxons, Corrie actor Daniel Brocklebank, and...nope, no-one else comes to mind.

The Warwickshire town welcomes over 2.5 million visitors a year. The sub-zero temperatures and the post Christmas/New Year lull didn't seem to be deterring anyone at all.
The central streets and the footpaths alongside the Avon were bustling with people, Gail's Bakery was doing a roaring trade, Bridge Street was proving a traffic nightmare.
We headed away from all this, walking to the smart terraced streets of the old town where our first pub of the day lay beyond the reach of most tourists.
The Bull (
9 Bull Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6DT)
Which meant it was very quiet.  For the first...and almost certainly not the last...time in 2026, PropUptheBar visits an almost empty pub at off-peak time.  Saturday lunchtime, but a Saturday when many folks were reflecting on how much they've spent over Christmas and faffing around with Dry January.
The staff at the bar took the opportunity to take the bottles off the back shelves of the bar for a bit of deep cleaning.
The Bull has been an Everards house since 2023, providing us with this cask choice...

'Festive Ale' for me.  A top option for the cold weather, brewed with dark malts and molasses, served in fine condition and disappearing from the glass far too quickly.
We sat in the back section of the pub, on some jazzily colourful seats, with the weather forecast handily displayed on the TV screen.

Inevitably, little of excitement to report from this quiet pub visit.
Which is when I resort to taking a picture of pub toilet signage...
We took the picturesque route back to the centre from The Bull, through the grounds of the Holy Trinity church, then along the riverside through Avon Bank and Swan Gardens.
The intention was to stop at the GBG '26-listed Dirty Duck for lunch, but everyone else seemed to have had the same idea and there wasn't a seat to be had.
The alternative was the Rose & Crown...
The Rose & Crown (15-17 Sheep Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6EF)
This is a Tudor-framed pub which dates back to the late 16th century. It stretches back a fair way with various dimly-lit nooks and crannies, the long bar counter towards the rear in a barn-like extension.  Hand pumps served an 'Abbot Reserve' or Tim Taylor 'Landlord'.
The Rose & Crown seemed to have attracted a mix of tourists and real Stratfordian folks, perhaps those banished from Wetherspoon's across the road, or drawn here by the sport on the TVs in the back section.

From one Tudor-fronted, wooden-beamed pub to another.
We strolled up the road to the historic 'must visit' hostelry in town... 
The Garrick (25 High Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6AU)
This photogenic building traces its history back to 1596, part of a building boom that followed a couple of wicked fires which ripped through the town in the two prior years.
The Garrick is on the left, Harvard House (built by the grandfather of US University benefactor John Harvey Harvard) on the right. The pair are sandwiched between the slightly less impressive Fresh sandwich baguette emporium and Hoorays Gelato Kitchen.

The Garrick has a flag-stoned corridor leading to a a rear room, but you really want to be diverting through the first door into the tiny front bar...  

This would be a classic pub room if only it featured uncomfortable bench seating rather than a couple of hideous high tables with leather cushioned seats which seem out of place in this olde worlde setting.
Cask offering was a the regular Greene King 'Abbot' or the pleasing sight of a North Cotswold 'Hung Drawn and Portered'.  The latter for me - a delicious chocolatey dark brew that went down a treat.

I hadn't visited the Stratford micro since 2014, so figured it was high time for a return. 
Stratford Alehouse (
12B Greenhill Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6LF)
Opened in 2013, this is located in a run of modern retail outlets on Greenhill Street where there is not a timber-framed building to be found.  It's a cracking single-roomed place, with beery decorations, seating at high tables, beer straight from the barrel, and a friendly welcome. 
It was also doing a roaring - seemingly 90% local - trade.

The midlands cask selection came from Slaughterhouse, Milestone, Froth Blowers, and Bewdley Brewery.  The Froth Blowers 5% pale 'Hornswoggle' was my pick - a lovely pint packed full of flavour and served in top condition.
We settled on the big round table by the window, where we could rest of glasses on Bass beer mats, persuse the local papers, or catch-up on the latest from Anfield.
Hang on a minute, that's a signed football programme - a less honest punter would have pocketed that and stuck it on e-bay.

We actually tackled the next pub in the dark, but I rather prefer my picture from the early-afternoon pass-by when we failed to nab a table...
The Dirty Duck (Waterside, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6BA)
In a super spot by the river, a few minutes from the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, the Dity Duck is a pub of two names.  There has been an inn here for many a year and one known as the Black Swan since 1776 - and that's still the name on the signage today.  Yet, somewhere along the line, it acquired the nickname 'The Dirty Duck'. The Food and Drink Guide tells us this is the only pub in the country to be licensed under two names.

Inside, there are various sections to the pub surrounding a central bar counter, although it's the Actor's Bar to the right which is the best spot in the house...

The walls are covered in signed photos of people I've mostly never heard of.  The seating includes some great wooden settles, and cosy spots to nestle down in on a chilly evening.
Okay, so it's our third Greene King pub of the day, meaning the beer range includes more Abbot Ale and GK IPA, but my seasonal 'Fireside' wasn't half bad.
We figured my could squeeze one more beer in on the walk back to our lodgings for the evening.  I fancied the chance for a pint of Davenport's - a West Midlands beer that doesn't make it the extra hop down into my neck of the woods.
Apologies to the Coach House for the usual lacklustre nighttime photography.
The Coach House (42 Rother Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6LP)
We braved the bouncers on the door, although what they were bouncing I'm unsure - most of the evening trade seeming to consist of gentlefolk diners and the Coach House was relatively quiet within.
It's a Grade II listed building, originally a 16th century house, although inside this is very much a recently refurbed pub, the beer adverts, tiles, and leather cushioned seating reminiscent of other Davenport's outlets I've visited.

With a choice of their IPA or Gold Ale.
Stratford is far to well-heeled and respectable to deliver mild smut in the gents, but the Coach House did deliver a saucy seaside postcard collection...
With the Davenport's branded glass empty, it was time to call it a night.

Yep, Stratford isn't Warwickshire's top pub destination, but it had served us well for one winter evening with some characterful old inns and NBSS 4 beer in the Alehouse.  Unfortunately, it's the second time I've visited when craft bar Ya-Bard has been closed, and there is no chance to drink Windmill Hill beer al-fresco from a Dutch barge in the middle of winter.
I also seem to have forgotten to include any culture on the blog post and forgot to take a picture of the swans.  Business as usual in 2026, then. 

Monday, 8 December 2025

Oxford Villages Trip 2025 version

On a frighfully gloomy and wet November Saturday a group of Oxford folk comandeered a minibus to explore a half-dozen or-so village pubs to the west of the city.
I was on a similar excursion back in 2022 when we called into two of the inns on today's itinerary, but it was the pubs that were brand new to me this time around that I was most looking forward to.
Here's the route...

First stop: 11:57, Yarnton.
Where the young lady opening up took a glance out the window expecting the usual tranquil scene of village life only to spot 16 eager punters waiting for the door to be unlocked.
Red Lion (127 Cassington Road, Yarnton, OX5 1QD)
I visited this pub when it was first taken over by local chain Oak Taverns early in 2024.  Prior to that it had struggled for several years before being put up for sale by Admiral.
There has been a pub close to this site in Yarnton for several hundred years, the original demolished in 1957 when the current Red Lion was constructed.
It's open plan within: seats in the bay windows in the front, a freshly lit wood burner at one side, back doors in the rear section overlooking a lovely - but very wet - back garden.
On the bar three cask ales were on offer: Goffs 'Black Knight', Hook Norton 'Hooky', or Twisted Tree 'Trunk IPA', plus a stack of 8 boxed ciders to pick from.  
Tempting as those ciders may have been, the ABVs were very hard to see on the labels, so I stuck safe with the Bicester-brewed 'Trunk IPA'.  Not an IPA in my book of beer definitions...more a modern best bitter, but very drinkable and on top form.

Rounding up the group, we clambered back aboard the bus for the next leg of our journey.

🚍7 miles, Yanton > Stanton Harcourt
Journey time extended by the usual slow crawl of traffic on the A40.
Harcourt Arms (
Main Road, Stanton Harcourt, OX29 5RJ)
My first impressions weren't particularly positive - we were definitely in the territory of rural Oxford gastro-pub with rooms.  It doesn't even look especially pub-like from outside.
Or on first glance to the right through the front door...
But the left-side room is gloriously stuck in time, dimly lit, with thick stone walls, fires burning at both ends giving an aroma of woodsmoke.  Squint and you can imagine the farming types settling here rather than posh car brigade out for Saturday lunch or the scruffy pub-tour brigade crowded around the pump clips.
Cask ales on offer were Purity 'UBU' and two from Norfolk's Woodford Brewery which don't make it this way very often: 'Nelson's Revenge' or 'Wherry'.  A dark and delicious Nelson's for me, priced at £5.20.
Taken straight to the prime sofa spot next to the wood burner.
Saying cheerio to the staff at the Harcourt Arms, we had a short journey down country lanes to our next destination.

🚍3.1 miles, Stanton Harcourt > Northmoor
Journey time extended by our driver Tony stopping in the middle of a country lane to buy homemade marmalade from a random table at the end of a cottage driveway.

We called into the Red Lion at Northmoor, somewhere I've visited a fair few times previously.
Cask ales available were from Fullers, Hook Norton or Cotswold Lion on this occasion - the wonderful 'Greedy Goose' for me as I accept the season for winter beer is truly upon us. 

The Red Lion was the busiest I've seen it - warm and welcoming in the bad weather, doing a roaring trade with a good mix of diners and drinkers.  Especially impressive being as the village is situated down single-track lanes, a fair way from any public transport routes.

The next pub was a revisit that I was thoroughly looking forward to.
Not least due to the possibility of 'grooming', which I would benefit from every now and again.

🚍7.5 miles, Northmoor > Bampton
Morris Clown (High Street, Bampton, OX18 2JW)
This early 18th century High Street pub used to the New Inn before taking on the unusual Morris Clown moniker in 1973.  Previously part of the Greene King estate it is now independtly owned and a quite fantastic no-nonsense wet-led boozer, which has become a regular in the Good Beer Gudie.
It's a single L-shaped room featuring some cracking murals on the wall.  No chance of playing bar billiards today, with the table acting as a stand for the TV showing Wales v New Zealand rugby action.
I ordered a pint of Butts 'Barbus Barbus' (£4.70 - the other cask ale option being Loose Cannon's 'Abingdon Bridge').  Last time I had this hoppy well-balanced session bitter it was brewed in the wilds of West Berkshire.  Butts have since closed their doors with this being one of their beers now concocted at Cheddar Ales.  And it was absolutely superb.
A great beer in a comfy, proper pub - best of the day, no contest - even the rugby couldn't dent my enthusiasm.

It was little more than a 5-minute hop to the next village where two pubs awaited.

🚍2.2 miles, Bampton > Clanfield

Uh-oh...we're back in gastro terriitory - no.4 on a recent Times Best Hotel Restaurants list no-less (the Ritz is sitting next to it at #3, for crying out loud).  Will they even let me in with my unruly beard, cargo pants and Dropkick Murphy's t-shirt?
Double Red Duke (Bourton Road, Clanfield, OX18 2RB)
This is a 17th century country house which later became an inn, run by Wadworth's Brewery for many years.  It's a rabbit warren of a place, with a host of vastly different rooms, sofas in small snugs, a cocktail bar counter, dining tables next to racks of wine bottles.  We settled on the tables in the main bar in a skylit extension towards the rear of the building.
There was a great selection of cask ales on the bar: Uley 'Pale Ale' or 'Pig's Ear', Hook Norton 'Hooky', and Ramsbury 'Deer Stalker'.  Served with chatty and knowledgeable enthusiasm by the fella at the bar who obviously cared about the beers on offer.

It's not often I see Cotswold brewery Uley, so I was chuffed to grab a pint of their crisp, bitter 'Pigs Ear'.  It was good - as it should be for the hefty £6.40 tarriff.

The Double Red Duke scores additional PropUptheBar points for their bespoke beermats.
And for the mysterious jars behind the bar.
 
But gets those points instantly deducted for having a cigar menu.

How much?!!!!

No need to get back on the bus this time with just a short dash across the road in the rain required for the next location.
🏃 83 yards, Double Red Duke > Mason's Arms

Mason's Arms (Bampton Road, Clanfield, OX18 2RG)
This was formerly the Clanfield Tavern (we're on a roll with pub name changes on this trip).  It was taken over by the same folks who run the Red Duke, the pre-1970 name was reclaimed, the interior refurbished and the pub reopened in October 2024.
It was pleasantly dark and moody when we stepped through the front door, so much so that the eyes to needed adjust to make out the Uley pump clips tucked away in the corner of the bar.
The stone walls are thick, the ceiling beams low, the wood fire burning.  It had a bit more of a boozy feel about it (or was that just because of our presence...) than the Red Duke, but beware - it's still smart and features on dozens of foodie websites. 

I went with the Uley 'Old Spot on this occasion - another cracking pint, although with it being a second 5% ABV beer in a row I was beginning to flag a bit.
We hopped back aboard the bus and made our journey down the dark lanes toward Oxford, with a pitstop at the Bruning and Price (not my preferred choice, but I have no voting rights).

🚍15.2 miles, Clanfield > Besselsleigh

Too wet and dark for an outdoor pub picture.
So I'll close the post with a photo of gentlefolk in the Greyhound.
Where I lurked in a corner sipping a Little Ox 'Hufflepuff' (we did have the brewer on the bus with us, so it seemed fitting to finish the trip with one of his beers).


Another great day out, visitng a wide selection of pubs and taking me to a couple of new places. 
Much appreciation goes out again to Tony for driving us through the rain.
Maybe one day I'll be sensible and realise I really don't need to call into the Lamb & Flag when we get dropped on St Giles...but not this time, of course.

Monday, 24 November 2025

Cologne - Going Out in Style


One more blog post from Köln before I return to these fair shores and harp on about village pubs in Oxfordshire.
Mainly because I couldn't fit all my pictures into the previous post.  So indulge me whilst I explore the shopping centre, visit a true classic of a pub, and end up in the Palladium for a bit of live music.

There are lots of interesting stores along the pestrianised Hohestrasse, which I strolled along in the morning - a Lego store, a cheese shop, expensive Belgian chips on offer, and somewhere that meets all your statue needs, large and small...

The delivery charge won't be cheap, but Mrs PropUpthe Bar is gonna be emotional when that bronze nude turns up on the doorstep in time for Christmas.  Quite what emotions, I'm not sure.

Leaving the innerstadt, I made the essential trek across the 
Hohenzollernbrücke, the iron railway bridge spanning the Rhine, unnecessarily bedecked with padlocks.

The views along the river bank and back towards the dom are fantastic.  The tower in the KölnTriangle on the other side (a building site last time I was here) offers the chance to view the city from its observation deck for 5 euros - and you get to ride the elevator to it rather than tackling those 500+ steps of the cathedral south tower for a view.

The main thing that had brought me to this side of the river at 11am was the opening time of a pub that has a bit of cult status.
Lommi's is such a good-looker that there should really be some strict restrictions about parking directly in front of it and foiling pub photographers. 
Gaststätte Lommerzheim (Siegesstraße 18, 50679 Köln)
Like so many great pubs and bars, this is named after its legendary long-serving former owner.  After his parents had been serving drinks on the site since 1945, Hans Lommerzheim took over and officially opened 'Lommi's' in 1959.  It consisted one 50sq meter wood panelled and brown wallpapered room with a handful of tables and seats at the bar.
It then remained completely unchanged for the next 45 years.
After Lommi's death in 2005 Päffgen brought the pub from his widow and spent a considerable time refurbishing it before opening again in 2009.  Thankfully, modernity hasn't really encroached on Lommi's...

I visited on a Monday lunchtime, getting there just after 11am when they open for lunch.
As such, I was customer number 3, with another dozen folk arriving afterwards, but reports suggest there's often a queue formed waiting for the door to be unbolted on busier days of the week.

I'd barely sat myself down when the first glass of Päffgen kölsch arrived at the table.
No drinks list.  No checking what you'd like.
After all, what else would you be rocking up here at 11 in the morning for, if you didn't want a kölsch.
There's a sizeable menu chalked onto the blackboards - bring your translator - of what are apparantly very hearty portions of traditional cuisine.
This chap strolled in to pick up his takeaway order, finding the time for a couple of swift beers whilst waiting and looking every bit like he did this on a daily basis.
I got through a fair few of those kölschs, keeping up with the neighbouring table, knocking back my beer in preparation for the next pass-by of the waiter when your empty glass becomes a full one in the blink of an eye.
€2.20 a glass - cash only.  I paid my bill and headed back to the riverside to continue my amble
 down the east bank of the Rhine,  I wanted to have a closer look at the space-age buildings I could see looming over the river in the distance.
They're part of spectacularly redeveloped docks, with a Deutsch sports musuem and Chocolate museum nearby, should they take your fancy.
For a bit more traditional riverside architecture, the picture-postcard shot is back up near the centre...
Early evening with darkness descended, I opted to veer away from the trad German beer and seek out some Euro craft. 
Délirium Café Cologne (Salzgasse 2-4, 50667 Köln)
Yep - those
Délirium folk have expanded beyond that alley in Brussels and now have this outpost in Köln, in the heart of the city on a pedestrianised street surrounded by pubs and food outlets.  As they don't serve food, you can grab your pizza from across the road and bring it into the Délirium cafe to accompany your Tremens.

Whilst playing table football and retro video games...
...accompanied by moody techno pop...Absurd 'Brain', Yvng Patras (who?), Baco Exu do Blues (who?)...
The music may not have been what I'd have picked, but this was a good-sized comfortable bar with a hefty list of 30 beers on offer displayed on digital screens above the counter.
This trip wasn't lengthy enough for me to be pining for a Deya 'Steady Rolling Man' or Sam Smith's 'Chocolate Stout'.
Lots of familiar brewing names on the taps with the best stuff being the Pohjana and Lervig

I wanted something dark, so ordered the Dutch Two Chefs 'Stroopwafel Stout 6%.  I feel like a stroopwafel stout should be double-digit strong and thick as treacle, so this light easy-drinking brew was maybe not as exciting as I hoped it would be.
I decided to look for something more local on the beer list, grabbing myself a Superfreund 'Rookie' IPA - a collaboration between the Schleswig-Holstein brewer and the Berlin Brewdog crew. 
My final night in Cologne was set to be soundtracked by Celtic folk punk rock over in the Mulheim district, watching the Dropkick Murphys at the Palladium.
Quick bite to eat from VeganLand...
Then a 10-minute walk to the venue, housed in old industrial buildings.
Boston punks Haywire opened proceedings pretty much as soon as I'd stepped through the door. 
I had time to buy a vastly over-priced souvenir tour t-shirt, followed by some vastly over-priced beer (Gilden kolsch or Radeberger Pils dispensed into your 
2 deposit plastic beaker).
Frank Turner and the Sleeping Souls were the second support act.
Playing a set of favourites in front of an enthusiastic packed house, it was easy to forget that Frank wasn't the headline act and there was still another band to take the stage.
I know not everyone likes him (my friend Mr Baker took the time that very evening to text me from Portland and remind me he "didn't rate him").  But the band delviered a pretty perfect, finely-tuned 45-minute set, culminating in Turner throwing himself into the crowd during Four Simple Words.

Leaving the Dropkick Murphys to close the evening.
They delivered a 25-song set spanning their whole career: 3 tracks from their 1998 debut through to the first live airing of the just-about-to-be-released A Hero Among Many.
Plenty of old favourites too...that shouty one that everyone knows from The Departed movie, the trad folk-rock rendition of The Fields of Athenry, and a corking version of Rose Tattoo.
It was loud.  It was raucous.  It was great fun.
Waiting for the tram back from Mulheim to the city centre I reflected on a great short break - football, trad beer houses, new-fangled craft ale, a bit of sightseeing, and a bit of live music.
Hopefully it won't be too long before I'm back in Germany doing it all again.
Goodnight, Cologne.