Monday, 23 February 2026

Craft Beer in Munich

February 2026.
Back in Germany with a couple of gig tickets, football tickets, a few sightseeing ideas, and a whole lotta beer which needs to be drunk.

So, without further ado, let's start exploring the Bavarian capital, somewhere I haven't been for a fair few years. 
The central outdoor market seemed as good a place as any to start.  BBC weather had promised me that Munich was replicating the UK's early 2026 rainfall every day forecast, so I figured I'd make the most of the mild and dry conditions on my arrival and sample some helles al-fresco.

Biergarten Viktualienmarkt (Viktualienmarkt 9, 80331 München)
Beer comes from the kiosk where half litre's of pale lager are dispensed at the counter to the left for you to scoop up, before handing your €5.50 to the chap at the counter to the right.  No need for the barrier or any queue on a weekday February afternoon, when there was just enough custom to ensure your beer hadn't been sitting there for too long. 

 
The Viktualienmarkt beer garden rotates through the big Munich brewers every couple of weeks, with barrels of Hacker Pschorr being tapped on this occasion. 
The helles does the job without being especially exciting - a sweet bready golden lager that's lightly carbonated and easy to drink.

Being as it was fairly bright and not raining, I paid my €5 to clamber up the steps of the 91m-high church tower of St Peter's.
(Perfect blue sky the next day, but how was I to know...)

That bit of exercise almost certainly offset the calories of the beer, making it quite acceptable to waste no time in sampling the wares of another of the Munich 'Big Six' breweries.
Augustiner Stammhaus (Neuhauser Str. 27, 80331 München)
On a busy central shopping street, this was the original site of the Augustiner brewery and adjacent beer hall.  It was completely rebuilt between 1896 and 1897 by local architect Emanuel von Seidl to incorporate a restaurant for the newly prosperous folk of the city along with several function rooms and a courtyard garden.
I may only have explored a fraction of the place, but it's a super-impressive cavernous venue: vaulted ceilings, dark wood panels midway up the walls, big tables, and steady buzz of conversation with most tables occupied even if it was far from as busy as it often gets.

I grabbed a stool at one of the huge barrels close to the bar, where my view looked like this...

Then ordered myself the Augustina 'Weissbier', a 5.4% brew which smells of yeast and banana when you get your nose into that frothy head, then tastes of malty bread, citrus and orange peel once you get on with drinking it.
Mmmm...
One great beer from the brewery that many Munich folk will argue is the city's best.
I made a call to the basement WCs which have that annoying feature of an attendant expectant of your euro coins, although - to be fair - they were pristine facilities. 
Then took a quick blurry snap of the front room and the Schäfflerwagenkranz, the ceiling light featuring coopers dancing to ward off the plague...
Then I was on the move, heading towards  one of the city's modern brew pubs...

Schiller Bräu (Schillerstraße 23, 80336 München)
This was a short walk from the haupbahnhof, along a bustling street.  It was founded in 2017 and is shiny and modern inside, featuring brewing coppers on a raised platform in the front window, sleek and smart dining tables on two floors beyond the bar.
They offered three house brews in traditional Munich styles (light or dark lager and wheat beer) plus seasonal bocks and festbiers if you're here at the right time.
I tend to favour a dunkel, so that's what I ordered...not very dark though, is it?
This was at the lighter end of the dunkel colour spectrum - best bitter-looking - with others being stouty black and a fair few disguised completely by being served in ceramic mugs.
Apologies to Schiller for not staying and trying all the beers, but I had other places to visit.
Leaving Schiller, I caught the U1 underground line to Kolumbusplatz, then made the 5-minute walk up Falkenstraße to another modern brew pub.
BrewsLi - Der Biermacher (Taubenstraße 2, 81541 München)
BrewsLi (good name!) is a cool little craft brewpub in a nice neighbourhood.  It's an L-shaped place, with shiny brewing equipment visible just inside the door, sofas and casual seating in the front, regular tables towards the back.  A young chap named Benjamin Saller is the owner and brewer, setting up the 250l brew kit and opening the bar slap bang in the middle of lock down 2020.
The beers are all displayed on skate boards hung above the bar counter - or on an easier to manage piece of paper if you sit at a table.  Eleven in total, including an alcohol-free offering, trad styles, tweaks on trad styles, IPAs and a sour ('Hoppy McTartface').
Prices ranged from €3.90 for 0.3l of the helles to €8.20 for a half litre of the 7% west coast IPA.
I stuck dark with a 5.9% 'Night Draft' 'light' porter...
Brews Li was quiet when I arrived, although a reasonable Tuesday after-work crowd steadily rolled in whilst I was there.  Music was 90% dubious modern hip-hop with Galliano providing a slight jazzy up-turn and Nena's '99 Red Balloons' an unexpected curveball.
Being initially the only person sat at the bar enabled a nice chat with the staff about football and beer.

The porter was followed with a 'DH Helles' 5.4%, a craft twist on the style, dry-hopped with citrussy Krush hops.  Then the 'Top Notch' 5.4% session IPA.
A thumbs-up to Brews Li then, which deserves a place on anyone's Munich beer itinerary.
But I had to move on, with my eye on a little more craft beer to finish my first day in the city.
I hopped aboard a bus that randomly terminated midway through its route, the jumped on this tram...
Tap House (Rosenheimer Str. 108, 81669 München)
Wow!
This was one of the first craft bars to trample into Munich's trad drinking reinheitsgebot territory and serve up all sorts of modern murk.  They do it rather well.
A long bar counter stretches the length of the room to your left when you step through the door.  An arched ceiling gives this a cellar-like feel, painted a murky yellow (is it just UK pubs that discovered olive paint?)
The tap list offered up a hefty choice of 40 beers, the first 18 of which came from Bavarian brewery Camba (from Seeon-Seebruck), owners of the Tap House.
There was too much choice.  Trying everything I'd like would have cost me a pretty penny with the stronger beers perilously close to the €9.00 mark.  And I probably wouldn't have been able to walk in a straight line or find my way back to the hotel either.
Imperial stout from Munich Brew Mafia, limited edition NEIPA from Yankee & Kraut, a Jager Weiss wheat beer...Murphy's Irish stout (? perhaps I'll skip that one)...what to pick?

I opted for Camba's own limited-edition 8.5% collab: 'Zappenduster Imperial Oatmeal Stout'.
 
Then stuck around for the pinsa (tarte flambée) and a murky strong IPA from Frau Gruber.
After which it was time to call it a night.
Turns out you that 8.5% imperial stout is an absolute destroyer when you've been up since 3am in the morning.

Saturday, 7 February 2026

Beaconsfield Beckons

The Microsoft news feed on my work PC seems confident that I want to read stories about George R.R. Martin's never-happening next Game of Thrones book, Man City's unlikely-to-ever-happen 115 fines, Wetherspoon's latest pub openings and closings, and behind-the-scenes insights into the Traitors. 
They haven't really got me sussed yet, but I do like keeping up to date with Spoons.

Which is how I came to pick Beaconsfield as a wintery Saturday afternoon destination, providing me the chance to visit the newly opened Chiltern.
The Chiltern (12 Station Road, Beaconsfield, HP9 1QR)
And wow!  It was doing a roaring trade - the new kid on the block bringing out the locals in force.
At first glance the building doesn't look especially old or cinema-like. Yet it opened in 1927, designed by 
Leathart and Granger of London in an unconventional style for a picture house.  In 1989 the credits for Nick Nolte crime thriller 'The Three Fugitives' rolled and the popcorn detritus was swept up for the final time when The Chiltern closed.  In the interim it's been a pizza restaurant, but now finds itself as one of the newest Spoons outlets.
In a Beaconsfield bid to be released from Bucks and incorporated into the capital, The Chiltern was taking part in the Wetherspoon London Beer Festival.  Presenting me with too much choice at the bar, with a cracking range of styles represented over half-a-dozen guest ale hand pulls.  The Wimbledon 'Hounds of Helles' drew me in with the dramatic pump clip and my fondness for a dunkel.  Although it was a bit light-bodied and not as good as I'd hoped.
I returned to the bar for a Mad Squirrel 'Amberillo', a super beer in great condition.  Keep this up and I'll expect to see The Chiltern in the GBG before too long.
The 'bustling' heart of the pub is the high-roofed auditorium where the bar is, whilst there are quieter seating areas in a front section and around the entryway.  
Toilets are, inevitably, a climb up the stairs, with a glass-walled passageway to them providing the birds-eye view of proceedings.
Time for a quick shot of the carpet before departing...
Then onward into the chill afternoon, my next destination no more than a couple of minutes around the corner...
The Taps Beaconsfield (5-7 Gregories Road, Beaconsfield, HP9 1HG)
This is a shop conversion, turned into a modern bar which is too smart and large to be called a micro.  It's not going to please anyone looking for a traditional pub, but it instantly gets my thumbs-up for Violent Femmes 'Blister in the Sun' playing on my arrival.

Here's the beer list...
Not a bad selection. No bargains to be had, though.

I ordered a half of the Otherworld 'Lycan' pale ale, having had a superb stout from the Dalkeith brewery in Oxford's The Grapes a couple of days earlier.
And a half of the local cask - Stardust 'Roses'.
Two decent beers.
Football chat from the three gents on the next table who turned out to be Hadley FC's Ultras (Beaconsfield Town 4 Hadley 1, hmmm...perhaps you should stayed in the pub).
And bespoke beer mats...what else can you ask for?
Moving on from the Taps, it was a three-quarter of a mile walk south from the station and shops to 'old' Beaconsfield.
Which was quite charming...

By the roundabout where the A40 and the road to the station meet, you've got the old Royal Saracen's Head on one side and the untraditionally named Vinny and Ted on the other.
There are a couple more pubs in this part of town, but lots of 'No Cask Ale' notes on the CAMRA website.
Vinny and Ted (10-12 The Broadway, Beaconsfield, HP9 1ND)
The entrance porch suggests an old pub, although I can find no record of what this used to be before becoming the second Vinny and Ted (the first being nearby in Chalfont St Peter).
It's a bright modern place within. Stylish lighting. Shiny polished wooden floors. Blankets to drape over yourself if you opt to sit outside.

Professional bloggers would ask the bar staff to pose for a picture.  I give you the bar staff's back as my Verdant murk is being expertly dispensed...
In my defence, I snapped the pic to remind myself what beers were on offer.
A really decent selection from the likes of Anspach & Hobday, Wiper & True, and Glasshouse.  There were also two hand pumps offering cask from Deya ('Steady Rolling Man') or Swannay ('Chance Your Arm').

I was foolish, spending £7.50 on a half of Verdant's 'Putty 2026', one of those concoctions which they make a new version of each year, rave about the latest variety, and charge an arm and a leg for it.  Very nice, mind you.
I'd left myself a hefty walk if I wanted to continue local explorations.  Back up past 'Spoons, past the station, and straight up the road for another mile to reach Knotty Green.
I was so chuffed to make it without any rain falling from the gathering grey clouds that I didn't notice the very neat topiary in the front garden.
The Lion of Beaconsfield (Penn Road, Knotty Green, HP9 2TN)
The oversized houses lining Penn Road with their security gates should really have given a clue that the residents of Knotty Green wouldn't be clamouring for a down-to-earth trad boozer.  Maybe this was just that at one point, but in its latest incarnation, The Lion is very much the smart and respectable dining pub.
It's unusual to get this far into Buckingham pub explorations and not have encountered ale from Marlow's Rebellion Brewery.

I boldly took a bang average pint of 'Overthrow' to the best seat in the house: the table next to the fireplace, where I disregarded the 'reserved' sign.  Actually, I think every table had a reserved sign - it was that kind of place.
 
Not a bad fireplace, I thought. But wait 'til you see the next one!

I quaffed the second half of my beer rather too quickly, keen to move on.  I was just down the road from the self-proclaimed oldest pub in England, the historic inn that will most likely be the reason any pub afficionado has hopped off the train at Beaconsfield station.
The Royal Standard of England (Forty Green Road, Forty Green, HP9 1XT)
It was autumn 2020 when I last visited, back in the time of table-service and getting told off it you wandered around too much trying to find the room where they filmed Hot Fuzz or Midsomer Murders.
To be honest, it's a tourist attraction - enormous car park (just me getting stuck in the mud on that footpath through the field of horses then...) - folks not quite knowing what to do at the bar - no-one blinking an eyelid at the odd chap taking pictures...it's almost expected here.
Two cask ales from the Chiltern Brewery, two from Rebellion, one mysterious house bitter.
All at premium prices.
I picked the Rebellion 'Roasted Nuts', served in a heavy, pub-branded, handled glass which seemed to make it last longer.
 
There are so many nooks and crannies and cosy rooms within this pub - settles and wooden benches galore, antlers and shields hung from wall throughout, and enough character to make me accept the higher-end pint prices after all.
I plonked myself in the rear banquet room...
Now that's what I call a fireplace!
Although vegetarians may not be so keen on the slabs of meat in the fridge next to it.

Finishing my pint, I raced back over the muddy footpath under a dusky sky, then through the leafy Beaconsfield suburbs, only to reach the station approach road and see the Oxford train departing.
Bugger. Forty-five minutes.  A patient wait on the platform? Back to Spoon's for more festival beers? Somewhere new?
The new 'tick' won...
The Beech House (17 Penn Road, Beaconsfield, HP9 2PN)
I'd walked past the Beech House earlier on my trek to the Lion, although it hadn't jumped out at me and got me hoping I'd have to time to spare before a train.
It's a large single-storey modern pub which has been open since 2013.  Still described as 'newly open' on CAMRA's website description, 
suggesting Beaconsfield really doesn't get much love from the local branch.

Huge dining room to the right, spacious drinking areas to the left.  A fair crowd in early on a Saturday evening, although I wonder how many they've lost to Spoons?
The sole hand pump served a below par Fullers 'London Pride'.

I not only kept one of the Boothe party seats warm before 18:00 but also covered half their reserved sign in London Pride due a wobbly table.  The bits of rubbish aren't mine though...I take my litter away with me.

And with that, it was time to catch a train.
Regrettably, I don't think I'm quite committed enough to be heading to Alicante to tick off the most recent of new J.D.Wetherspoon openings.

Friday, 6 February 2026

Sweet Hanney Buckiin

In which we set out to the SW Oxfordshire neighbouring villages of East and West Hanney to tick off one of the Oxfordshire GBG 2026 pubs that I hadn't previously visited.
This trip also provided the chance to call in to Wantage, find some mild smut in the gents WC, and pretend I know stuff about modern pop when concocting the usual low-quality blog post title.

We caught the S9 Oxford-Wantage bus from the city centre. Prior to 2022 this used to race past the Hanney's on the A338, but now handily recognises the existence of the village, pulling off the main road and stopping right outside the Black Horse.


The Black Horse (Main Street, East Hanney, OX12 0JE)
This is a good-looking village pub with a fine horse's head painted on the front of it, and stone black horses either side of the front door.  It'd look even better without the parked cars.

The entrance corridor divides a dining area to the right and bar to the left, with a superb collection of ceramic jugs lining the high shelf...

The ceramic collection continues within...

The Black Horse was once part of Abingdon brewery Morland's estate, but is now owned by giants Heineken. It closed for a spell back in 2024, so it's pleasing to see it not only open, but in the Beer Guide, and with a good crowd of folk present.
Cask options were Fullers 'London Pride', Tim Taylor's 'Landlord', or the local Loose Cannon 'Abingdon Bridge'.
I ordered the Pride.  Drinking well, as they say.
Accompanying a fine plate of food - the sole veggie option on a very meaty menu.

All that and mild smut in the gents WC!
We departed from the Black Horse under some lovely blue winter skies, making our way along the lane leading from East to West Hanney.
Part-way along this is Dandridges mill, a Georgian silk mill that was turned from a derelict building in 2007 to modern eco-friendly apartments.  It generates its own electricity from an Archimedean screw on the millstream, which we traipsed up the driveway to have a look at.
I guess that counts as my East Hanney tourism.
We continued along the Causeway, a single farmers field making up the green buffer between East and West Hanney.
Onward past Hanney Spice, which we could have popped into for a pint if we'd been here pre-2008 when this was The Lamb.

A left-turn at the village green takes you to the church and the remaining open pub.
Only just, though.  Punch Taverns put the 16th century thatched roof inn up for sale in 2015, at which point members of the local community grouped together to purchase and run the place themselves.

The Plough (Church Street, West Hanney, OX12 0LN)
The community owners have done rather well.  The Plough has been a regular in recent Good Beer Guides and picked up a White Horse CAMRA pub of the year award in 2024.  The food has been getting great reviews - clicking on  'About' on the pub's website tells you nothing about the pub itself and lots about award-winning chefs Owain and Luke.
We can't have two meals in one lunchtime, so what about the beers?  

On cask: Butcombe 'Original', a Butcombe house beer, Wye Valley 'Butty Bach', or Loddon 'Farmer's Paradise'. I picked the lesser-known 'Farmers Paradise', a 4% harvest pale ale with Cascade and Simcoe hops.
Being so busy inside, we took drinks out to the permanent marquee attached to the rear of the pub, with enough decorations & mix and match furniture to make it feel like an additional room rather than 'outside'.
Even the marquee filled up whilst we were there, this community local seeming to do impressively well for a cold winter afternoon.
We left the Plough and wandered back to the bus stop, rejecting the paths across the fields to Wantage on the basis that it's rained an awful lot in January and the respectable pubs of the town probably wouldn't welcome four boots and four paws coated in mud.  Not that we were really planning on going anywhere particularly 'respectable'.
Off the bus and straight into the middle of the market square for the Alfred the Great pic...
Then around the corner to the Blue Boar...
The Blue Boar (4 Newbury Street, Wantage, OX12 8BS)
This generated a bit of excitement when it was refurbished and reopened a few years back - getting a 'most improved' award, mainly due to being pretty awful beforehand, I suspect.
The courtyard drinking area is a strong point, but not in January. Instead we ended up on the high tables in front of the bar in a rather spartan interior.
Crikey, what's that murk?
Two hand pumps dispensed cask ale in the form of 'Directors' or 'Wainwright', whilst the Blue Boar usually has a couple of decent guest keg lines. This gave me the chance to grab a Tartarus 'Kitsune', a sensible-strength double-dry-hopped pale ale.  That's what that murk is.

You'll also be wanting to see the cracking pump clip which drew me that beer, and the seat covers... 

 
A couple of minutes walk around the corner took us to the Oak Taverns-run King's Arms.
The King's Arms (39 Wallingford St, Wantage OX12 8AU)
Back at the Blue Boar, a large group of jovial ladies on G&T's and takeaway pizza had been responsible for 90% of the noise within the pub. Once they'd departed I could actually hear the music from the speakers: a bit of Mgmt and Duran Duran.  We caught up with the same group in the King's Arms, badly timing it so as to be behind them at the bar.  Oh well, at least that gave ample time to pick from a hefty choice of cask, keg, or boxed ciders.

I was relishing the first chance of the day for a dark beer, picking the Mighty Oak 'Solstice', a 4.1% rich chocolatey porter.
The King's Arms really needs a crowd of folk to make it click and Saturday late afternoon provided that nicely.  We shared the back room with a fair few dog walkers and chaps on the corner of the bar glued to the snooker on TV.
As the Shoulder of Mutton sits straight across the road from the King's Arms, we felt we should really call in whilst so close.
This used to be an absolute old-fashioned gem with a quirky layout, rustic feel, and outdoor loos.  I was a bit gutted when it underwent a refurb, getting pristine toilet facilities, eradicating the single-table snug, and adding a smart skylit drinking space where the back yard used to be.

The Shoulder of Mutton (38 Wallingford Street, Wantage, OX12 8AX)
Yet I really quite enjoyed this revisit and have to grudgingly accept that most folks drinking here on this occasion would probably have steered clear of the original incarnation.
The old chalk board for listing beers is kept above the fireplace as a relic, replaced at the bar by an electronic display showing an impressive keg and cast selection.
I picked the Vale '80/' as something a little different. 

And we ended up staying longer than planned and moving onto the Vibrant Forest golden ale.

Then, when we finally left, something unusual happened. 
We timed it perfectly for a bus and didn't need to call into the Bear for a half of Arkells.