Sunday 5 May 2019

Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, St Albans

Ye Olde Fighting Cocks (16 Abbey Mill Lane, St Albans, AL3 4HE - web)
This historical Hertfordshire pub is one of a handful which lay claim to be the oldest pub in Britain.  With an unusually shaped building, in a lovely location next to Verulamium Park, it's no surprise to see it marked on the tourist map, alongside the Roman ruins and clock tower.

Arriving in St Albans in the late morning, I headed straight towards the Fighting Cocks.
Reaching it just after opening time, I was just beaten to being the first customer by a chap with his two children.  The kids insisted upon riding their scooters through the pub and then they spent an age ordering lunch and double-checking the bill.

Ye Ole Fighting Cocks, St Albans
So whilst I'm waiting to be served, here's the...
Vaguely Historical Bit

The pub lays claim to date back to the year 793 AD and greets visitors to it's website with "Welcome to Britain's Oldest Pub".
Only one pub that I've come across stakes a claim with an earlier year than this (that'll be the recently visited Old Ferryboat, St Ives, 560 AD). 
Bold claims of Ye Olde age.

Unfortunately, as with all 'Oldest Pub' claimants, it's a little tricky to verify this date.

The building owes its octagonal design to its original purpose as a pigeon house.
This pigeon house once stood closer to the abbey (now St Albans Cathedral) and is documented as having been moved to its present location around the year 1600.  

When it was re-erected this was reputedly upon the foundations of part of the Palace of Offa, King of the Mercians, from which the 793 AD date comes.
But there are historians vehemently insisting that this is unlikely, partly because the cellars and substructure is the same unusual shape as the pub, rather than that of a medieval palace.
Low beam head hazards an essential of Britain's oldest pubs 
The usage of the Round House as a pub can be traced back as far as 1756 when it was trading as the aptly named Three Pigeons.  This had changed to 'Fighting Cocks' by 1806.
Possibly the name derives from this being a cock fighting venue, with the small sunken room to the left side of the bar claimed to be an old fighting pit.  But there is no real evidence this was the case.
Suddenly Sky Sports and fruit machines don't seem such bad pub entertainment after all.

The Cock Pit.
Today there was a wide choice of ales on the bar, including two from Farr Brew.  I felt it would be fitting to try something from this local St Albans brewery, so picked their 'Our Greatest Golden by Farr', a 4.1% ABV golden ale.
Lots of choice.  No jam jars to help.
The bar itself was lit with a range of jazzy, modern coloured lighting which was in stark contrast to the old wooden beams and fireplace in the room.
And back in the 1700's you'd be unlikely to find your beer-supping accompanied by a Best-Of AC/DC playlist.  Not that I'm complaining - a bit of 'Thunderstuck' made for the best pub soundtrack of the day.

So, it seems that the jury is still out on which is the oldest pub in the country.
In this case it depends on whether you're looking at how old a building is, or how long it has operated as a pub.
And whether re-erecting a building means it dates back to it's original construction, or the date of the re-build? 
Most folk, of course, will say it doesn't matter - a good pint, friendly welcome and comfortable surroundings are what counts.  And they're probably right.


The White Hart - another St Albans historical pub - the distinctive coaching inn dates back to 1470.

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