Tuesday 10 August 2021

York Heritage Pub Wonders


After the North Yorkshire coast and moors, we arrived in the city of York, where it turns out they've got a fair few pubs.

In sightseeing mode, we set out in the glorious sunshine to walk the 2-miles around the city walls. 
The northern section is popular and busy, delivering some cracking views of York Minster.  Then most folks seem to give up after reaching Goodramgate leaving a large, admittedly less spectacular, section of the walk quiet and peaceful.

Reaching Fishergate I spotted the Masons Arms across the other side of the road...
Heritage Pub.  Lunchtime.  Let's do it!
Well, at least let's do it after waiting an age for a break in the traffic to take a picture, then another age to get across the road ourselves...
Masons Arms (6 Fishergate, York, YO10 4ABweb)
The pub was built in Gothic revival style in 1935 as a flagship project for the Tadcaster Tower Brewery.  At the same time, the York City Gatehouse (built in 1830) was being demolished, so the architects took advantage of this and salvaged the fireplace and oak panelling to incorporate into the lounge bar of the Masons.


The pub suffered a blow in 2016 when it was badly damaged as devastating floods struck York.  Once the water subsided it took 7 months to repair the damage, including replacing the flooring throughout and reupholstering the seating.

It does look quite magnificent.  We settled on a large table in front of the bar in what would once have been the separate 'sitting room'.

The pub also has quite majestic 1930's lavatories.  You can tell I was sober and sensible as I made no attempt to photograph the loos.
Instead, here's what the bar looks like...
Sadly there wasn't much custom on a  midweek lunchtime - I wonder how many people don't get this far, lured into the ugly Wetherspoon's just across the road next to the Postern Tower instead?

But you don't get to listen to 'In the Navy' in Spoon's, the pick of the bunch on the retro pop soundtrack.

The house beer is Westgate 'Masons Blonde' a re-badged version, I guess, of the Wakefield brewers regular blonde ale.
Added bonus: pub pic place mats!


Continuing back to the wall walk,we were excited about seeing the castle just around the corner.
Dammit - scuppered again...
Significant scaffolding

Crossing the River Ouse and heading down Bishopgate, one of York's classic pubs is to be found...
The Swan (16 Bishopgate Street, York, YO23 1JH)
This is one of the cities big three heritage pubs, along with the Golden Ball and Blue Bell.
It dates back to 1861 and was later acquired by Joshua Tetley & Sons who gave it a 1930's makeover.  And that 30's design is pretty much what you see today.

You enter to a stand-up lobby where the bar is located, with doors either side of this leading to the public bar and smoke room.
Bench seating and hand sanitizer in the public bar
We grabbed a table at the side of the lobby facing the bar and next to the inquisitive greyhound in the picture at the top of the post.
The staff gave us a knowledgeable run-down of the cask and keg ales on offer and (being the fool that I am) I picked the strongest of the lot, the 6% 'Jotun', brewed in Sheffield by Neepsend Brewery.


Heading back into the fearsomely busy city centre, we made our way to what is reputed to be York's oldest pub - Ye Olde Starre Inne.
Seriously - what's going on with that spelling?


Ye Olde Starre Inne (40 Stonegate, York, YO1 8ASweb)
Tucked back from the street down an alleyway there's not much to see of the Starre as you wander down Stonegate.  So they made up for it with the impressive and unmissable gallows sign that straddles the whole street.

Much altered over the years, the most notable historic feature is the old decorative glass screen.  Brett Bros were 19th century York brewers who owned the pub when the screen was made for an 1890's refit.
There are multiple rooms within the Olde Starre - I'm sure I didn't see half of it - whilst there are also several outdoor courtyard areas.  The hot weather had driven most people outside with a mix of tourists, shoppers and a couple of hen parties having found their way down the alleyway for refreshments.

It's a Greene King pub, with a range of guest ales to save you from GK IPA - in this case we made a rare diversion from Yorkshire beers into South Wales for a Tiny Rebel 'Birra Colada'.


For the final pub in this post, we headed out of town into the Holgate district.
The stained glass dividers between seats give a clue as to the pub name...
The Fox (168 Holgate Road, York, YO24 4DQ)
It's a rarity being able to turn up in a popular heritage pub on a Friday evening and be able to mooch around, appreciating the fine interior and taking pictures of empty rooms.  The fine weather meant that almost all the customers were outside in a large garden where it would have been nigh-on impossible for us to find a seat.
I was more than happy inside.  Just look at it!

The pub was built in 1878 and would once have been the regular for many workers from the nearby engine sheds and locomotive workshops, prior to their closure.
Tetley's gave it a careful 80's makeover, then the latest restoration has been completed by Ossett Brewery who currently run the pub.

We finished an evening of pub explorations at the Fox, sat in a wonderful room, with a tasty pint of Osset 'Excelsius', and a soundtrack of decent indie rock. 

Take a glance at the Heritage Pub Website and you'll find another 8 listings alongside the four pubs on this post.  We only scratched the surface, being as we also had a couple of beer guide entries I wanted to visit and some more modern crafty bars in the city.
More of which on the next post.

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