An Unexpected Pub Tour in Topsham

The last time I visited the Exe estuary was in December: on the western shore, in my winter coat, grey clouds threatening, Omicron running rife.
Now in sunny July, I returned to the opposite side of the river to visit pubs in Topsham and Exmouth.  (Omicron's still running rife, but we've decided we're not bothered about it any more...)

The starting point was a return visit to the Bridge Inn.
My enthusiasm was dampened by seeing the main door firmly closed and service from a stable door.  Guess we won't be sitting in the snug then.

Bridge Inn (Bridge Hill, Topsham, EX3 0QQ)
We placed our order at the hatch: veggie Scotch eggs, Salcombe 'Island Street Porter' and a Branscombe 'Flat Calm' cider.
We took these out to a picnic table next to the muddy banks of the River Clyst, with more tables alongside the edge of the car park and a small marquee at the end.

When the condiments were brought to our table, I timidly asked if they only operated outside at this time of year.  Apparently they keep the two front rooms and indoor bar counter shut in warm weather, so as just to serve from the one spot.
"But feel free to pop in and have a look around before you go", we were told. 
So we did.

The Tap Room

Whilst inside we were fortunate enough to get chatting to the daughter of the current licensee, another generation of the family who've run the Bridge Inn for over a hundred years.
We were given a rundown of the pub history, with it's many old features being pointed out to us.  Forget the recent Jubilee - there is still bunting from the Coronation hanging up in the snug.

The wonderful snug - complete with ancient grandfather clock from 1726.
The hatch was added after WWII to make serving the beer from the cellar easier.

We were taken behind the counter - the inner sanctum - then through the cellar, where beers are served straight from the barrel, and past some remnants of what would once have been the pub's own brewery.

The Malt House Room

The final room is the old malt house, now scattered with homely furniture, a giant pile of logs, and the ledge around the wall housing a crockery collection.

Thank you very much for the tour of the pub!
I left a very happy heritage pub ticker!

From little-altered historic inns, our next destination was originally a 16th century coaching inn, but has been much updated into gastro-territory for Topsham tourists.
This was located in the characterful narrow streets weaving through the town to the quay.
The bright sunshine behind the hotel scuppered my photo....

The Globe Hotel (Fore Street, EX3 0DY - web)
I feared for the worst, expecting a query of whether we would be eating/had a reservation.  But actually the room to the left of the entrance is a reasonably comfy bar with plenty of space for the casual drinker.
From the St Austell line-up on the bar, I picked their lesser-seen 'Anthem', an enjoyable easy-drinking golden ale brewed with all-British ingredients.

The other rooms to the side and rear were fully set-up for dining, although quiet enough for me to take a picture of the globe at the Globe...

  

Leaving Topsham, we headed south on bus 57, disembarking before it reached the bustling heart of Exmouth.
Our destination in the suburbs was the Holly Tree, a bit of a regular in the Beer Guide, which I'd never made it to before.

Holly Tree (161 Withycombe Village Road, Exmouth, EX8 3AN)
Being a mile from central Exmouth and even further from the promenade and sandy beach, it's not surprising that this is every bit the locals pub.  Or that not many of them were in, as we arrived shortly after their 2pm opening time.

Just three tables occupied, all as far apart from each other as possible, and the chap by the pool table scarpered into the garden as soon as we sat near him.

Beers on the bar were St Austell 'Tribute' and 'Proper Job' and my pick of a decent Dartmoor 'Jail Ale'.  We were going to see a lot of all these beers over the coming week.

We hopped aboard a bus into town and made our way to another current GBG entry, this time a club just beyond a car park.
Nice 'Non Members Welcome' banner outside, removing the stress of knowing whether we needed to brandish CAMRA membership cards in order to get served.

GWRSA Railway Club (3-5 Royal Avenue, Exmouth, EX8 1EN - web)
Interesting scout hall hut design.
Inside it's every bit a club, with a stage at one end, bar at the other, typical function room table and chairs inbetween.
Originally it was for employees of the Great Western Railway only, but as the number of these declined over the years anyone can now become a member and go to bingo night, or to see bands with names like the Grumpy Old Gits and Old Skool Rox.

There was a good variety of beers on the bar, with the 5.1% stout, 'Darkness - The Prince of Ales', from Exeter Brewery, being my pick.
And very nice it was too.

Drinking up, we strolled to the water-side, with fine views up and across the estuary.
In the warm weather Mrs PropUptheBar took the chance to paddle her feet.
Cripes, how far is she going...

Looks like she's on her way to tick off the Galleon Inn at Starcross on the other side of the Exe.
Come back!