The picture at the top of the post is the Colonel Brewpub, which was the first place we visited in the Latvian capital: attracted by the words 'Brew Pub' and the jolly drunken soldier on a barrel.
Picturesque from outside it may be, but inside it was dull, geared more towards dining, and featured the odd choice of big-wave surf videos on giant TVs (which were actually pretty mesmerising and hard not not to watch). Disappointingly, both the light and dark versions of the home brew were pretty dreadful.
I remember the days (before the invention of craft beer) when the local brew pub was my highlight of many a European trip. They were always hit & miss, but presented a chance to drink something other than the local big-brand beer (almost inevitably owned by Heineken) and to pick up a unique beermat to add to the collection.
So on day three we wondered if we'd have more joy at the barn-like Stargorod Brew Pub, just beyond the northern edge of the old town.
Stargorod is billed as Riga's Czech brewery, although it's actually part of small Ukrainian chain.
It's a cavernous multi-roomed place, with pictures in the reception area of cheery revellers dancing to live music suggesting it can be quite a raucous experience at times. But not if you visit in the middle of the afternoon like we always do.
It was a waiter service - an overly serious young man seating us near the bar which had a bank of TVs above it showing women's wrestling.
Before our beers arrived an egg timer was mysteriously delivered to the table.
Drinks served, the waiter explained to us that the beer was brewed on site, so was kept in optimum condition through to the point it was poured.
But look out! As soon as it's in the glass it has to be drunk speedily before the quality can lapse. Hence, once the egg timer runs out your beer is no longer at its best.
This is definitely true and not a ruse to get you to drink quicker and buy more beer.
Drinks served, the waiter explained to us that the beer was brewed on site, so was kept in optimum condition through to the point it was poured.
But look out! As soon as it's in the glass it has to be drunk speedily before the quality can lapse. Hence, once the egg timer runs out your beer is no longer at its best.
This is definitely true and not a ruse to get you to drink quicker and buy more beer.
 |
| The timer ran out awfully quickly. Much more quickly than I could quaff my beer. |
My photography skills have let me down and I haven't really captured the full glory of the toilets at Stargorod.
At the back of the urinal behind a screen was a row of TV screens showing the sports channel to ensure you don't miss any of the action.
Then there was the addition of a boxing arcade machine in the toilet. A bit sexist, I thought, putting it in the gents on the assumption that no ladies will want to test the strength of their left hook at some point during an evening out.
At the back of the urinal behind a screen was a row of TV screens showing the sports channel to ensure you don't miss any of the action.
Then there was the addition of a boxing arcade machine in the toilet. A bit sexist, I thought, putting it in the gents on the assumption that no ladies will want to test the strength of their left hook at some point during an evening out.
Departing from Stargorod, we made a quick call into Kakis Maisa (Torņa iela 4, Centra rajons, Rīga, LV-1050). This is located in a cellar room of the old Jēkab's Barracks - a photogenic building which was constructed along the old city fortifications. It's worth a visit to try the beers from Teika Brewery, which the bar is connected to.
But some places really need a crowd of folk to make them work, and this was one of them. Turns out even the Riga tourists don't head out to drink craft beer mid-afternoon, midweek, as we had the place all to ourselves.
The rest of our planned destinations for the evening were a mile or so from the old town. Our first point of call was Beera Bar, in the basement of an elegant building...
Beera Bar (Ģertrūdes iela 39, Centra rajons, Rīga, LV-1011)
This was a pleasant and comfortable L-shaped bar: a bit of street art on the walls, fridge full of beers, and digital menu above the counter. And the best soundtrack of the week, featuring Bowie, T-Rex, Magazine and Talking Heads.
There were 12 taps with Polish brewers Pinta and Stu Mostov alongside the local offerings.
I picked the BEERA bar 'Flight 611' pale ale - a collaboration with Alchimistis Beer Bar in Athens - flight 611 being the direct service between Riga and Athens.
Finally we'd found somewhere that was a little bit busy, even though I managed to take a picture of the dark interior which makes it look almost empty. There were a number of drinkers gathered around the bar, some young folk around the corner engrossed in a complicated board game, and a steady procession of locals popping in to fill up growlers.
Sat at the end of the moodily lit room on chunky stools we enjoyed the our murky Latvian pale ales here, with a good choice at much more reasonable prices than the bars of the Old Town.
A 15-minute walk took us further out of town into much quieter streets until we found our way to a brewery tap...
Alus Rūme Trofeja (Avotu iela 74, Latgales priekšpilsēta, Rīga, LV-1009)
This proved to be a great little place, lots of wood, quirky decorations, a friendly fella behind the bar, and a few locals nodding along to the post-rock soundtrack.
It's the taproom of Trofeja Brewery with around eight of their beers on offer. I must have been feeling a little homesick as I picked the 'Anglu Kents' mild (absolutely nothing like an English mild, but never mind). Before popping back to the bar for a 6% herbal winter stout - they do like their herbal beers in Latvia.
This proved to be a great little place, lots of wood, quirky decorations, a friendly fella behind the bar, and a few locals nodding along to the post-rock soundtrack.
It's the taproom of Trofeja Brewery with around eight of their beers on offer. I must have been feeling a little homesick as I picked the 'Anglu Kents' mild (absolutely nothing like an English mild, but never mind). Before popping back to the bar for a 6% herbal winter stout - they do like their herbal beers in Latvia.
A speedy ride in a Bolt (the Latvian Uber) took us back to the city centre.
Where we conceded we'd had enough beer, but hadn't had enough cherry liquor.
Piana Vyshnia draws the tourists in with it's spectacular ceiling made of bottles and illuminated by red light. And the traditional Ukrainian cherry tipple isn't half bad!
Where we conceded we'd had enough beer, but hadn't had enough cherry liquor.
Piana Vyshnia draws the tourists in with it's spectacular ceiling made of bottles and illuminated by red light. And the traditional Ukrainian cherry tipple isn't half bad!
And with that I'll bring my explorations of Riga to a close. We'd sampled Baltic ciders, weird spirits in wacky basement bars, and craft beers...oh so many craft beers.
If I'd been a more cultured blogger I'd have shared my pictures of the wonderful architecture of the city. But no. I'm signing off with a Baltic porter and garlic black bread picture.
Uz veselibu!
If I'd been a more cultured blogger I'd have shared my pictures of the wonderful architecture of the city. But no. I'm signing off with a Baltic porter and garlic black bread picture.
Uz veselibu!
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