Further explorations of Devon took me to the corner of the South Hams - not far from Plymouth, but feeling miles away from the big city.
The plan here was to tick off the Beer Guide pubs in neighbouring villages Newton Ferrers and Noss Mayo, before heading inland to Brixton.
Newton Ferrers was the first point of call. The thriving centre (Co-op) is up on the hill, giving the first glimpses of the view across the water to Noss and the wooded slopes rising above the River Yealm.
The plan here was to tick off the Beer Guide pubs in neighbouring villages Newton Ferrers and Noss Mayo, before heading inland to Brixton.
Newton Ferrers was the first point of call. The thriving centre (Co-op) is up on the hill, giving the first glimpses of the view across the water to Noss and the wooded slopes rising above the River Yealm.
Dolphin Inn (Riverside Road East, Newton Ferrers, PL8 1AE)
It was bright and airy and pleasant inside, although all the customers were outside across the lane on the two-level patio, a sun-trap with a glorious view.
Even the staff member from behind the bar took the first opportunity to settle into the armchair outside the front door, as soon as she'd served me and struggled to explain to a French couple the difference between pub opening times and food service times.
I picked a Salcombe 'Gold', on great form, with the other option being Salcombe 'Seahorse', or cask cider.
The Dolphin doesn't attract those kind of ruffians who stick Tiverton FC Casuals stickers on the tanks in the WC. Nope - Dartington Morris have been round marking their patch here...
Time it right when the tide is out and you can walk across the creek to the other side. Ancient stone pathways called vosses enable you to navigate the estuary mud.
No such luck for me as the tide was in. This was what I reached when following the footpath signs to Noss Mayo...
The long way round for me, then.
The route around Newton Creek takes you on the low road under the impressive-looking St Peter's Church, past the Swan pub (outdoor terrace packed full - cask marque sign - I really should have called in for completions sake), then to the slipway at the top of the inlet.
No such luck for me as the tide was in. This was what I reached when following the footpath signs to Noss Mayo...
No opportunity to take the Voss to Noss |
The route around Newton Creek takes you on the low road under the impressive-looking St Peter's Church, past the Swan pub (outdoor terrace packed full - cask marque sign - I really should have called in for completions sake), then to the slipway at the top of the inlet.
Despite the location, the Ship didn't strike me as especially photogenic from any angle, nor inside, really.
Very much a smartly refurbished place with many tables set ready with cutlery and wine glasses for gentlefolk diners.
But I was happy with the beer choice: the familiar 'Tribute' and 'Jail Ale' and the local Noss Beer Works 'Church Ledge' or 'Ebb Rock'.
I'd come across Noss Beer Works in the Christow Inn and enjoyed the Church Ledge.
The Ebb Rock was even better - a pretty perfectly presented chestnut coloured bitter.
And the location I drank it in was unbeatable...
The Ebb Rock was even better - a pretty perfectly presented chestnut coloured bitter.
And the location I drank it in was unbeatable...
Four-and-a-half miles inland, I found myself in the village of Brixton.
The Foxhound Inn (Kingsbridge Road, Brixton, PL8 2AH)
Located on the main road through the village, it's a two roomer:
Dining and real ale handles to the left; locals, lager, and cricket on TV to the right.
Beers on the bar were Summerskills 'Indiana's Bones' (topical at the moment, with Harrison Ford having another outing in the role), Summerskill's 'Red Coat' (brewed specially for the pub), Dartmoor 'Jail Ale' (of course) and South Hams 'Devon Pride'.
I figured I'd go for the Red Coat, being as it's unique to the Foxhound. Then watched as the bar staff poured me a Devon Pride.
"Hmmm...that's not the Red Coat", says I.
"Oh. Don't worry - it's the same price"
I guess this young chap probably considers them all the same and hasn't encountered CAMRA folks with meticulously organised little notebooks of all the beers they've ticked.
I'm not overly fussed myself - helped by the fact that the Devon Pride was lovely - but, y'know, it's kinda nice to get the beer you've actually asked for.
This was my last port of call for the afternoon, sat next to the TV with the cricket commentary on, under an impressive display of pump clips on the beams.
Three pleasant pubs, three decent ales, lots of sunshine and some stunning scenery around the Yealm estuary - a part of Devon that's well worth a visit.
Three pleasant pubs, three decent ales, lots of sunshine and some stunning scenery around the Yealm estuary - a part of Devon that's well worth a visit.
Great post, Nick and one that takes me back over 30 years.
ReplyDeleteFond memories of the Dolphin, which back in the day served a cracking pint of Draught Bass, straight from the cask.
Thanks Paul. The current GBG says the Dolphin still serves Bass, but none on my visit. A disappointment quickly recovered from thanks to the wonderful views from my seat in the garden.
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