During our short stay in Ilfracombe we headed out into the nearby North Devon region to visit country inns, rugged beaches and a brewery tap with elusive opening hours.
First up, a brief lunchtime stop for a half-pint in Fremington.
First up, a brief lunchtime stop for a half-pint in Fremington.
We received a great welcome at the New Inn. The laid-back Labrador came to check us out when we walked through the door into a central hallway.
Then a bit of a first - pub orientation on arrival from the cheery lady behind the bar.
"Have you been here before", she asked, before giving us directions to the games room, lounge, outdoor seating and WCs.
She went on to apologise for the loud music (Tom Petty at a fine volume, I felt), explaining they hadn't been having a party before we arrived, but she had it on loud for a local fella who's a bit deaf.
There was a choice of three ales from Barnstaple brewery GT Ales, from which I picked the award winner amber ale 'Thirst of Many'.
A beer on decent form for what I'd guess would be the first served of the day. Just a few folk in on a midday visit, although we passed by of an evening time when it looked to be doing a roaring trade.
Moving on, we made the 13-mile trip west to the village of Parkham.
A beer on decent form for what I'd guess would be the first served of the day. Just a few folk in on a midday visit, although we passed by of an evening time when it looked to be doing a roaring trade.
Moving on, we made the 13-mile trip west to the village of Parkham.
This building was previously a forge and two farm workers cottages prior to becoming an inn.
We're lucky it's here at all - it suffered a devastating fire in 2017 which took over 80 firefighters 3 days to extinguish. The restoration has done a good job to retain a trad country inn charm.
The long front room had larger tables intended for diners of a lunchtime, whilst the bar was in another section to the back. Two of the four handpumps were in action, serving Ringwood 'Razorback' or Dartmoor 'Legend', as well as local ciders being on offer.
We settled down to enjoy some superb food - the best pub lunch we had in Devon.
Topped off with the "famous" butterscotch meringue ...
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| Mmmmm... |
Leaving Parkham we set the SatNav to take us to the coast, marveling at the route it picked which seemed to avoid main roads of any description. This was an excursion into narrow hedge-lined Devon country lanes with passing places, potholes and occasional grass up the middle.
Our destination was Welcombe, right on the north-western edge of Devon, a mile from the Cornish border.
Wikipedia informs me that it has a population of 189 folks and "has a beach called Welcombe Mouth, which is a challenge to get to.[citation needed] ".
Hey, they can reference this blog for that citation needed.
Welcombe Mouth is a challenge to get to.
The walking route from the village may not be too tough, but by car the National Trust signposted narrow lane turns into a rollercoaster bump-fest of a rocky track.
Not a bad spot when you get there though...
One mile inland, in the spread-out village of Welcombe, is the pub...
Wikipedia informs me that it has a population of 189 folks and "has a beach called Welcombe Mouth, which is a challenge to get to.[citation needed] ".
Hey, they can reference this blog for that citation needed.
Welcombe Mouth is a challenge to get to.
The walking route from the village may not be too tough, but by car the National Trust signposted narrow lane turns into a rollercoaster bump-fest of a rocky track.
Not a bad spot when you get there though...
Which disappointed me a bit.
From an empty car park the pub sits in a dip beyond a beer garden on two levels. A final set of steps leads to the thatched porch where we were glad to see the door open, the lack of customers making us wonder if we'd misread the opening hours.
This was supposed to be holiday season - where was everyone?
Two ales on the bar - Dark Star 'Hophead' or Dartmoor 'Jail Ale'.
I took a so-so Jail Ale to the garden bench then, was back inside in no time at all - scuppered by a downpour from out of nowhere.
One of the highlights of our travels around this area was an evening visit to Appledore.
On the western bank of the Torridge estuary, this village was bustling with tourists strolling along the waterfront, tucking into chips, and sitting in the sunshine on the benches outside the Seagate Hotel.
On the western bank of the Torridge estuary, this village was bustling with tourists strolling along the waterfront, tucking into chips, and sitting in the sunshine on the benches outside the Seagate Hotel.
Looking across the water, the sandy beaches opposite belong to Instowe, where we'd find ourselves another evening drinking Sams cider in the Quay Inn.
But for the time being, we were looking for the Champ.
But for the time being, we were looking for the Champ.
The Champ (Meeting Street, EX39 1RJ - web)
This is a lovely little pub, tucked up a side street from the quay.
It's a wet-led pub, offering the chance for customers to bring in their own food. And as it's two doors away from the chip shop you can pretty much guarantee what type of food customers will be bringing in.
Mrs PropUptheBar headed out to procure chips, leaving me to take the quality interior pub pictures...
The Champ is the tap for the Clearwater Brewery, with their 'Eric's ESB' and 'Honey Beer' available on our visit. I'd tried the ESB elsewhere (Weare Giffard Cyder Presse, to be precise), so picked the Honey Beer here, forgetting I'd had enough honey beer for a lifetime drinking Waggle Dance in the 00's.
I only wish we'd been staying closer and had been able to stay into the evening. The rear section of the pub was set up ready for live music, and I bet it's a blast when the place is busy and in full swing.
This is a lovely little pub, tucked up a side street from the quay.
It's a wet-led pub, offering the chance for customers to bring in their own food. And as it's two doors away from the chip shop you can pretty much guarantee what type of food customers will be bringing in.
Mrs PropUptheBar headed out to procure chips, leaving me to take the quality interior pub pictures...
I only wish we'd been staying closer and had been able to stay into the evening. The rear section of the pub was set up ready for live music, and I bet it's a blast when the place is busy and in full swing.
There was a queue down the street for Sylvester's fish and chips by the time we left...
Let me end the post with a brewery tap.
But not of the shiny, modern, industrial estate variety.
But not of the shiny, modern, industrial estate variety.
So, get it in the Beer Guide, I say!
Yelland village is half-way between Bideford and Barnstaple, overlooking the Taw River.
There was no obvious signposting for the brewery from the main road, Mrs PropUptheBar (this was her idea) navigating down someones driveway, before we corrected ourselves onto a track leading to a campsite and stables.
Opened in 2013, the brewery is a 5-barrel plant in a converted milking parlour. Being off the beaten track, it seems to exist mainly to serve the campsite.
Just the one ale is produced, the recipe for this being changed on a regular basis.
And I'd say a fair bit of it is consumed by the chap in charge, who was on his second pint before I'd had more than a couple of sips.
Lovely beer, though. In one of the strangest brewery tap rooms I've encountered.
And with that, it's probably about time for a change in the blog from the dominant Devon pubs.
I'll leave the South West to the tourists wondering what's happened to the English summer, whilst I cover the thrills(?) of pub visits to Bucks, Berkshire brewery taps, and non-league football in the next few posts.
And I'd say a fair bit of it is consumed by the chap in charge, who was on his second pint before I'd had more than a couple of sips.
Lovely beer, though. In one of the strangest brewery tap rooms I've encountered.
And with that, it's probably about time for a change in the blog from the dominant Devon pubs.
I'll leave the South West to the tourists wondering what's happened to the English summer, whilst I cover the thrills(?) of pub visits to Bucks, Berkshire brewery taps, and non-league football in the next few posts.
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