In my humble opinion, the £7.50 Day Pass becomes great value for money once you incorporate the ferry into your travel plans. I spent ten minutes with a big grin being battered by wind on the upper deck.
On the other side of the Tyne, it was just a short walk from the jetty to the Steamboat.
It's a looker isn't it?
Narrowing to the front on the junction of cobbled streets, with striking ground floor panelled frontage and a decent hanging basket display.
Stepping inside, I found a sturdy cask selection: 'Abbott' for the purists, 'Double Maxim' for the brown ale fans, Castle Eden for anyone wanting a resurrected local brewery, Anarchy the 'craft ale' option with a silly name.
Why am I such a sucker for a silly name?! My Anarchy 'Jaissle I Can Boogie' was disappointing. Not in great condition (but not quite bad enough to confidently return) which shouldn't be the case for somewhere with a Telegraph Best Pubs sticker. It was also my most expensive beer outside of Newcastle centre.
The chap at the jukebox entered a selection heavy on the Insipiral Carpets.
I grabbed a comfy seat and enjoyed the great surroundings more than I did my pale ale.
Moving on, I found my way past the considerable building works of central South Shields to the Metro station where I caught the first train in the direction of Newcastle.
Next stop: Felling.
The original chapel-like original station is much more appealing than the new one - dating back to 1842 this is Tyneside's oldest surviving railway station.
I grabbed a comfy seat and enjoyed the great surroundings more than I did my pale ale.
Moving on, I found my way past the considerable building works of central South Shields to the Metro station where I caught the first train in the direction of Newcastle.
Next stop: Felling.
The original chapel-like original station is much more appealing than the new one - dating back to 1842 this is Tyneside's oldest surviving railway station.
Just a few minutes further down the road is sometime Beer Guide entry the Old Fox, picked by me because it was on the Gateshead Pub Month leaflet that I'd picked up the previous day.
The Old Fox (10-14 Carlisle St, Felling, NE10 0HQ)
The Old Fox started life as the Station Hotel, later becoming known affectionately as 'Herbie's' after 50s landlord Herbie Hardwick. In more recent years it has become a respected local music venue which explains the spartan furniture and big open space in front of the window ready for the next live act to set up.
I guess you kinda get away it a bit when you're a music venue but, crikey, the Old Fox smelt!
Wet dog, years of beer spilt on the carpet, sweaty blokes (or was that just me?), vintage toilet aroma. It's just as well Google doesn't offer an immersive experience to capture the sights, sounds and smells.
The Old Fox started life as the Station Hotel, later becoming known affectionately as 'Herbie's' after 50s landlord Herbie Hardwick. In more recent years it has become a respected local music venue which explains the spartan furniture and big open space in front of the window ready for the next live act to set up.
I guess you kinda get away it a bit when you're a music venue but, crikey, the Old Fox smelt!
Wet dog, years of beer spilt on the carpet, sweaty blokes (or was that just me?), vintage toilet aroma. It's just as well Google doesn't offer an immersive experience to capture the sights, sounds and smells.
Of the five cask ales available (Plum Porter, Jarl, Ossett, Anarchy and Wylam) I picked the Wylam 'Magick'. A pleasant Amarillo hopped pale ale in good condition.
The All American Rejects played from the speakers, the small dog raced around the floor in pursuit of a toy, the locals at the bar put the world to rights.
The All American Rejects played from the speakers, the small dog raced around the floor in pursuit of a toy, the locals at the bar put the world to rights.
Nice pub in need of an airing and some shake n vac.
Just a couple of doors down the road is the Wheatsheaf.
Just a couple of doors down the road is the Wheatsheaf.
The Wheatsheaf (26 Carlisle St, Felling, NE10 0HQ)
This end-of-terrace pub is most notable for the Edwardian Arts & Crafts frontage which was added in a 1907 refurb. It looks great, especially the recessed doorway behind a pillar and tiled step.
Unfortunately the scaffolders have conspired to foil my pub picture.
And the interior doesn't jump out as a Heritage pub.
The Wheatsheaf couldn't be more different from the Old Fox. With comfy cushioned bench seating it was bright, airy, and full of cheery folk and chatter.
Once I'd marvelled the CAMRA clock above the bar, I turned my attention to the handpumps: Ossett 'White Rat' and 'Silver King', Allendale Wagtail, Firebrick 'Propa Belta'.
Once I'd marvelled the CAMRA clock above the bar, I turned my attention to the handpumps: Ossett 'White Rat' and 'Silver King', Allendale Wagtail, Firebrick 'Propa Belta'.
I opted for the local Firebrick, whose tap room I'd hoped to make it to, but time didn't permit. Just £4 a pint for a tasty session IPA, enjoyed in thoroughly comfortable surroundings.
Back on the Metro I headed straight to Newcastle Central, then under the bridge in search of a micro in a railway arch.
Beer Street (Arch 10 Forth St, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 3NZ)
Opened in 2018, I thought this was a cracking little bar.
On cask I found a Wiper & True pale ale, the Hadrian Border 'Oktoberfest' which I'd enjoyed in Gateshead the previous day, and some Sureshot murk.
The Sureshot 'Desperate Dan Appreciation Society' for me - on the pricey side, but quite superb.
Back on the Metro I headed straight to Newcastle Central, then under the bridge in search of a micro in a railway arch.
Opened in 2018, I thought this was a cracking little bar.
On cask I found a Wiper & True pale ale, the Hadrian Border 'Oktoberfest' which I'd enjoyed in Gateshead the previous day, and some Sureshot murk.
The Sureshot 'Desperate Dan Appreciation Society' for me - on the pricey side, but quite superb.
Just two other customers who instantly struck up a conversation and wanted to know everywhere I'd been. I don't think they were too impressed with me getting North and South Shields mixed up, but they did seem impressed at how much I'd squeezed in. They warned me that Newcastle on a weekend night isn't for the faint hearted and has some sights to behold. Can't be more eye-opening than our walk through Leeds on a Saturday night, surely.
I was recommended the Mosaic Bar (next time) and told to steer clear of the Victoria Comet ("unaffectionately known as the spit and vomit").
The soundtrack was dominated by indie blokes with guitars - The Kooks, The Libertines, The Stone Roses...
I liked it - a great micro that's well worth the short stroll from the central station.
Plus, if you're looking for Newcastle stickers in the WC, I reckon Beer Street is going to take some beating.
I was recommended the Mosaic Bar (next time) and told to steer clear of the Victoria Comet ("unaffectionately known as the spit and vomit").
I liked it - a great micro that's well worth the short stroll from the central station.
Plus, if you're looking for Newcastle stickers in the WC, I reckon Beer Street is going to take some beating.
More central micro action?
I walked past the Victoria Comet, a Nicolson's that looked absolutely fine to me, then through the central streets to Eldon Square.
I could see the outdoor customers but the entrance to the Wobbly Duck wasn't immediately obvious. I was in danger of ending up in Salon Sugar by mistake.
Ah-ha, that looks right...
I walked past the Victoria Comet, a Nicolson's that looked absolutely fine to me, then through the central streets to Eldon Square.
Ah-ha, that looks right...
The Wobbly Duck (4 Old Eldon Square, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 7JG)
Wow - a rare PropUptheBar busy pub visit.
Set down in the basement with wooden barrels as a ceiling, exposed brickwork, and a sepia rustic feel, this micro was full of customers and a hubbub of chatter.
Opened in the summer of 2021, it's actually run by the same folks as Beer Street and the Old Fox, so I was doing a good job of patronising their venues on this day.
Set down in the basement with wooden barrels as a ceiling, exposed brickwork, and a sepia rustic feel, this micro was full of customers and a hubbub of chatter.
Opened in the summer of 2021, it's actually run by the same folks as Beer Street and the Old Fox, so I was doing a good job of patronising their venues on this day.
The cask choice included beers from Two By Two, Tartarus, Black Jack and two that had come a long way: Verdant and Dorking Brewery.
The stout from Tartarus that I really wanted was declared finished mid-pour, so I ended up with a 'Leap Frog Pale' from Byker local Two By Two.
Which I drank pretty fast because I was wondering if there'd be a glorious sunset from the Free Trade and several people had beady eyes on the stools around a beer barrel where I'd fluked a seat.
One final trip on the Metro to Byker.
Dark clouds to the west and no sunset...
The stout from Tartarus that I really wanted was declared finished mid-pour, so I ended up with a 'Leap Frog Pale' from Byker local Two By Two.
Which I drank pretty fast because I was wondering if there'd be a glorious sunset from the Free Trade and several people had beady eyes on the stools around a beer barrel where I'd fluked a seat.
One final trip on the Metro to Byker.
Dark clouds to the west and no sunset...
Free Trade Inn (12 St. Lawrence Rd, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, NE6 1AP)
The Free Trade is an ale-drinkers institution in a magnificent elevated spot above the Tyne.
This was a Newcastle revisit for me, so no waffle about it.
Comfy, bustling, big choice of beers - from which I picked the great Left Handed Giant / Tileys collab green hopped ale.
The Free Trade is an ale-drinkers institution in a magnificent elevated spot above the Tyne.
This was a Newcastle revisit for me, so no waffle about it.
Comfy, bustling, big choice of beers - from which I picked the great Left Handed Giant / Tileys collab green hopped ale.
Let's go and see where they brew that Two By Two murk...
Two By Two Brewery Taproom (Unit 8, Morley's Yard, Byker, NE6 1PQ)
Two By Two was founded by Rob MacLeod who began by borrowing brewing time at other local micros before setting up a 5-barrel plant of his own in Wallsend in 2014. Those murky pale ales were popular enough to warrant a doubling in size of the kit in 2018, then a move to the current Byker site in 2022.
Two By Two was founded by Rob MacLeod who began by borrowing brewing time at other local micros before setting up a 5-barrel plant of his own in Wallsend in 2014. Those murky pale ales were popular enough to warrant a doubling in size of the kit in 2018, then a move to the current Byker site in 2022.
Okay, so sitting on trestle tables in an industrial unit isn't for everyone.
And the beer list was a bit hazy pale heavy.
But - as I've said many a time - I'm a sucker for sitting in a shed by shiny brewing kit and enjoyed coming here for more 'Leap Frog Pale', £4.20 on cask.
And the beer list was a bit hazy pale heavy.
But - as I've said many a time - I'm a sucker for sitting in a shed by shiny brewing kit and enjoyed coming here for more 'Leap Frog Pale', £4.20 on cask.
You'll also find current Good Beer Guide entry Brinkburn St Brewery just around the corner and the smart and stylish Full Circle Brewery tap room under 10-minutes walk away. Both visited at other times during my stay in the city.
Well, that was a fair loop of the Tyne.
Social clubs, Spoons, micros, a spot of pub heritage, and brewery taps.
And I could do it all over again and pick a completely different set of venues. Tyneside is great for pubs - pity it's so far away.
Social clubs, Spoons, micros, a spot of pub heritage, and brewery taps.
And I could do it all over again and pick a completely different set of venues. Tyneside is great for pubs - pity it's so far away.
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