Friday 23 July 2021

Whitby Pub Explorations

18-miles up the coast from Scarborough, our next point of call was Whitby.  Alongside plans to do a bit of walking and sightseeing, take in the sea-air, spend some money in the amusement arcades and eat more chips, we aimed to visit all the current Good Beer Guide listed pubs.
And here's how that went...

Earlier, we'd started the day with a Wetherspoon's breakfast in Scarborough. In a bid to be fed all day by the chain, we found ourselves in Whitby 'spoons for a late lunch - not a pub I'd intended to visit, but when it came to food, it was the easy option...

The Angel Hotel (1 New Quay Road, Whitby, YO21 1DH - web
This hotel by the port has been a fixture in Whitby for many years, serving as a coaching house since the 18th century.
Refurbished in 2013 this is now one of Wetherspoon's hotels, with 34 bedrooms up above the two floors of bars.
On this visit only the ground floor and outside seating was open, which made it all rather busy and hectic.
I offer no indoor picture of the pub - as I've found in a few places, the dividing screens throughout prove very un-photogenic.  Not that this low-ceiling room would have ever looked especially photogenic anyway. 

The Angel Hotel has a place in local railway history, being the location of 1832 meetings where the practicality of creating a train line from Whitby across the moors was discussed. Engineer Robert Louis Stevenson was to recommend making Pickering the other end of the line and it was opened four years later in 1836.

And it was to the station we were headed next...

The Waiting Room (2 Whitby Station, Whitby, YO21 1YN)
Having read that this micro pub was six-yards-square, I was keen to get there on the dot of it's 5pm opening time to ensure we secured a table.
Yet still I was beaten by about 6 folks who were even more eager than me.

This is a micro in the authentic mould - no lager or spirits, just six cask ales, ciders and some classic international bottled beers, in a room with no music or TV to distract.
The old station waiting room has been converted to contain the bar and six tables, with additional seating out on the platform.  There's railway memorabilia throughout and a wall-full of pump clips of beers previously served.

From the list of Yorkshire ales displayed on a whiteboard by the door, I picked the 'Gangway Gold' by
Little Eaton Brewery
And doesn't it look great...


I really liked the Waiting Room, but I'm sure someone wanting a seat appreciated us vacating our table as we moved on, heading across the River Esk to the Eastern side of Whitby.

Across the swing bridge, there are enough pubs along the cobbled streets in this part of town to keep you busy all evening, but we stuck with the Beer Guide and made our way to the Black Horse...
The Black Horse (91 Church Street, Whitby, YO22 4BH - web)
Church Street is one of the oldest streets in the oldest bit of Whitby, so it makes sense to find one of the town's oldest pubs here.  It dates back to the 1600's when it was previously known as the White Horse Inn, with the current building being erected in 1823.
The front room looked to be the most characterful but was full, so we had to settle for the back bar, accessed through a side door on the passage.  This proved to be a simple, unfussy, pub room.

We opted for the Hambledon Brewery 'Bootleggers Pale' from the four cask ales available, along with some Yapas - Yorkshire tapas - in this case a board of tasty local cheeses and home-made chutney.

This was Sunday evening, when there was some sort of football match on.
Lots of folk had pulled their replica kits out the wardrobe, cars had plastic St George's flags attached to them, and chants of 'Eng-ur-land!' emanated from the quayside from people who possibly starting drinking a little too early.

We found somewhere to avoid the build-up, with the Arch & Abbey a football-free zone.
Arch & Abbey (2-4 Skinner Street, Whitby, YO21 3AJ)
Back in the western part of town and uphill from the quay, the Arch & Abbey is a recently opened micro pub (although it seems pretty big in comparison to the Waiting Room).
This used to be a traditional ladies dress shop, with the lovely old fashioned windows and clock retained.
Four hand pumps dispense cask ale, with a few craft keg options, cider, or the local Whitby gin also available.  Presented with this choice, I ordered a thoroughly enjoyable pint of stout by Hilltop Brewing Co
.
The super-size dog steals the limelight

Ultimately, I couldn't ignore the Euro's altogether - I purchased a 2-pint take-out of Empire Brewing's 'Golden Warrior' from the Arch & Abbey and retired to our B&B to watch the match.

One day later...
Football had curtailed our quest to get around the Beer Guide pubs on Sunday evening - the Station Inn had been busy, the doorway blocked by bulky security staff.  We headed back, when it was much quieter...

Station Inn (New Quay Road, Whitby, YO21 1DH - web)
This has a fine location opposite the harbour and train station, but I'm afraid I didn't really warm to the Station Inn: maybe it was awkward little table in a corner we were put on, maybe just a deflated Monday evening atmosphere, the poptastic soundtrack failing to boost the spirits.
I picked the most local of the ales on offer - an Abbey Blonde by Whitby Brewery, which was in good condition and an enjoyable enough light, fruity beer.
A short walk took us to our final pub...

Little Angel (
18 Flowergate, Whitby, YO21 3BA - web)
Could this be named after Scarborough's premier 80's hair metal band the Little Angels?
(Ha!  That's taking me back to my youthful musical taste and 
long hair and cowboy boots!)
There was certainly a very rocky soundtrack on our visit.  The barman tried to skip forward the Limp Bizkit track, but re-started it after a minor customer protest.
The Little Angel consisted of three rooms connected to the main bar, as well as outdoor seating on a back patio.  At the time, Covid restrictions were still in place, scuppering the chance to explore the place properly (I got told off - hopefully for the last time - for lingering too close to the bar reading the beer list).

Those beers come from the on-site Lady Luck Brewery, with a varied selection taking in several different styles.  

With that, we'd completed all the current Beer Guide entries, although there are many more pubs and bars in this wonderful seaside town.

Join me in the next post when I endeavour to walk up the coast path in the rain and tackle the steps to the abbey to visit the Whitby Brewery.  Cheers! 🍻

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