In which we walk the 11.7 miles from Whitby to Staithes, following the Cleveland Way along the coast, and taking in a couple of pubs en-route.
The Great British Summer weather conspired against us, delivering low-lying cloud and drizzle on the morning that we'd planned to tackle this walk. But we refused to be beaten, setting off after breakfast from our Whitby guest house.
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| Nice weather for it |
The path took us along the tops out of Whitby, navigating the golf course via a dull bit of road-walking, before we were able to drop onto the lovely wide beach at Sandsend.
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| Sandsend |
From Sandsend, the path follows the route of the dismantled Whitby to Loftus railway line, but we were quickly faced with that familiar feature of coastal paths - the 'diversion due to landslip'.
This meant a steep climb to get the muscles burning early-on, before dropping us back down by an equally steep track, returning to the rail route. There's more climbing up some wooden step ladders at the point where the railway would have entered the Sandsend tunnel.
We were all set for tramping by torch-light through the tunnel, but there was a strange micro-climate chill by the entry to the tunnel, bringing to mind the kind of things that would lurk in here in Stephen King novels.
And more importantly, it was 1.5km long and firmly locked shut.
A few miles further on, after walking through the mist on the high cliffs, we eventually dropped down to the sandy beach at Runswick Bay. Just as the drizzle developed into proper rain.
This meant a steep climb to get the muscles burning early-on, before dropping us back down by an equally steep track, returning to the rail route. There's more climbing up some wooden step ladders at the point where the railway would have entered the Sandsend tunnel.
We were all set for tramping by torch-light through the tunnel, but there was a strange micro-climate chill by the entry to the tunnel, bringing to mind the kind of things that would lurk in here in Stephen King novels.
And more importantly, it was 1.5km long and firmly locked shut.
A few miles further on, after walking through the mist on the high cliffs, we eventually dropped down to the sandy beach at Runswick Bay. Just as the drizzle developed into proper rain.
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| Too wet to sit and admire the views at Runswick Bay |
The clock had ticked past midday and we needed food, beer and shelter.
But I was unconvinced by the Royal Hotel, nestled among the houses on the hillside overlooking the bay, and looking distinctly un-pubby.
But I was unconvinced by the Royal Hotel, nestled among the houses on the hillside overlooking the bay, and looking distinctly un-pubby.
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| Un-pubby (probably because it's missing all the signage which shows on it's web pictures) |
Royal Hotel (Runswick Bay, TS13 5HT - web)
We were seated in front of the bar and quickly served with a Bradfield 'Farmers Blonde' (Black Sheep bitter being the other beer available).
The chap who pulled the pints stayed firmly rooted behind the bar, leaving the serving of the tables to his young accomplice. Unfortunately, this fella was reminding me of some of our most disastrous work experience placements in years gone by. Intently studying his feet and prone to forgetting that his room full of customers may need something, he was struggling to make the link that people asking for menu's may actually lead to them wanting to order food.
But I'm being unfair. It took him a while to get in the swing of things, but he improved, tables were served, and we ended up with some very enjoyable and tasty food.
The place filled up with as many dogs as people and it turned into a great lunchtime stop.
We were seated in front of the bar and quickly served with a Bradfield 'Farmers Blonde' (Black Sheep bitter being the other beer available).
The chap who pulled the pints stayed firmly rooted behind the bar, leaving the serving of the tables to his young accomplice. Unfortunately, this fella was reminding me of some of our most disastrous work experience placements in years gone by. Intently studying his feet and prone to forgetting that his room full of customers may need something, he was struggling to make the link that people asking for menu's may actually lead to them wanting to order food.
But I'm being unfair. It took him a while to get in the swing of things, but he improved, tables were served, and we ended up with some very enjoyable and tasty food.
The place filled up with as many dogs as people and it turned into a great lunchtime stop.
Leaving the Royal Hotel we were briefly teased that it may have brightened up.
At least until we'd climbed above the bay, back on higher paths, when it got progressively wetter and muddier and it became hard work to keep the spirits up.
We reached Port Mulgrave, where we diverted inland along a lane to reach Hinderwell, the location of our next pub...
At least until we'd climbed above the bay, back on higher paths, when it got progressively wetter and muddier and it became hard work to keep the spirits up.
We reached Port Mulgrave, where we diverted inland along a lane to reach Hinderwell, the location of our next pub...
Brown Cow (55 High Street, Hinderwell, TS13 5ET)
This was a pub with a listing in the Good Beer Guide which says: "Real pubs like this are hard to find! Between the moors and the coast, and with a newly refurbished interior, but still reminiscent of walking into somebody's 1960s front parlour."
And it was a great place, where even the chap with his irritable and persistently crying youngster was not going to dent my enthusiasm.
Just look at that cracking front room: proper pub carpet, fireplace, Yorkshire darts, sleeping dog and dozing local... All good stuff.
This was a pub with a listing in the Good Beer Guide which says: "Real pubs like this are hard to find! Between the moors and the coast, and with a newly refurbished interior, but still reminiscent of walking into somebody's 1960s front parlour."
And it was a great place, where even the chap with his irritable and persistently crying youngster was not going to dent my enthusiasm.
Just look at that cracking front room: proper pub carpet, fireplace, Yorkshire darts, sleeping dog and dozing local... All good stuff.
A couple more locals came back out of hiding when the child appeared to have fallen asleep, reunited with their pints and chatting about some chap in Middlesbrough who'd been a money-lender and safe-cracker.
I probably slipped up by picking the guest beer of the two real ales available - a very light blonde 'Life's a Lemon' by Pennine Brewing Co, whereas this was a pub in which to have a good traditional best bitter.
One final bit of walking and we made it to our intended destination, dropping down into the charming fishing village of Staithes.I'd previously seen the wonderful location of the Cod and Lobster, although today it was missing the backdrop of blue sky and azure water that I'd had in mind...
Cod and Lobster Inn (High Street, Staithes, TS13 5BH - web)
The two rooms inside were surprisingly busy for 4pm on a midweek afternoon, relegating us to searching out the driest of the picnic benches under umbrellas outside. In different weather I suspect it would be the other way around, with the outdoor seating offering a lovely view of the harbour.
We were quickly served, selecting the guest ale which was a Helmsley Brewery 'Howardian Gold'.
The two rooms inside were surprisingly busy for 4pm on a midweek afternoon, relegating us to searching out the driest of the picnic benches under umbrellas outside. In different weather I suspect it would be the other way around, with the outdoor seating offering a lovely view of the harbour.
We were quickly served, selecting the guest ale which was a Helmsley Brewery 'Howardian Gold'.
Leaving Staithes, we climbed the steep streets back to the main road in time to catch the Aviva bus back to Whitby.
With the legs aching after the day's exertions, would we still be able to make it up the 199 steps to the abbey?
As we were driven by the knowledge there was a brewery at the top of them: yes!
With the legs aching after the day's exertions, would we still be able to make it up the 199 steps to the abbey?
As we were driven by the knowledge there was a brewery at the top of them: yes!
Apparently there is usually a small indoor bar and the opportunity to drink alongside the brewing kit, but when we visited this was all closed with only courtyard seating available.
Outdoor seating with no shelter, so it was just as well that it had stopped raining, although I admit to having a bit of a soggy bottom by the time we left.
It's fantastically situated, with the remains of the abbey next door.
I was thoroughly enjoying the music in the background (Huey Lewis & the News - oh yes!) and thoroughly enjoying the beer.
Firstly the 'Saltwick Nab', a deliciously drinkable 4.2% bitter, before moving on to a 'Black Death' 6.66% porter which was quite superb.
In conclusion, a day of much wetness and grey skies... But we'd gotten some good exercise, found some nice pubs and ended with pizza and beer at a brewery tap. Which goes down in my book as a bit of a success!
Next Up: we're on the North Yorkshire Moors...
Next Up: we're on the North Yorkshire Moors...
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