⮞ A walk up a hill
⮞ A bar in the 13th century crypt of an Augustinian priory
⮞ Castle ruins - although not the most spectacular you'll ever see
⮞ A micro pub
⮞ And bell pushes in an ancient hotel
On a glorious sunny Spring morning, we made our way up the Vale of Ewyas to the hamlet of Llanthony
This is a bit of a tourist hotspot, with the hills looming on either side and the atmospheric ruins of the priory to wander around.
I was smugly satisfied to get the last spot in the free car park, saving a whole £1 that the hotel charges to park in their neighbouring field.
We laced up the hiking boots and set out on a footpath up the hill toward Bāl Bach.
Wasn't that a song on the Pixies first album after reforming? Not one of their most melodic numbers to hum on the way up the hill, though.
We laced up the hiking boots and set out on a footpath up the hill toward Bāl Bach.
Wasn't that a song on the Pixies first album after reforming? Not one of their most melodic numbers to hum on the way up the hill, though.
Our route took us a little higher along the ridgeway following the Cambrian Way, until we dropped back down into the valley.
We did get lost on the hillside, had a precarious scramble, and scared some sheep. But I don't need to tell anyone about that bit.
Sadly, the GBG-listed Hunters Moon pub, back down in Llanthony, has been closed since March.
There was an alternative for a much-deserved pint and a spot of lunch, as the Priory Hotel has a cellar bar....
There was an alternative for a much-deserved pint and a spot of lunch, as the Priory Hotel has a cellar bar....
This is accessed through the grounds of the Priory ruins, making for a wonderful setting.
The more modern buildings on the site which have become the hotel were constructed in the 1800's. But the cellar beneath them was once part of the 12th century Augustinian monastery. Under the vaulted ceiling is a fantastically busy bar counter with expansive display of cakes and biscuits, and three handpumps hidden behind the confectionery.
I picked the 'Blorendge' golden ale, brewed by Tudor Brewery from Llanhilleth, a crisp, bitter beer that hit the spot.
We managed to get the last table (and there aren't many of them) and ordered some home-cooked food to replenish all that energy lost walking up the hill.
Llanthony would be intriguing of an evening once the day trippers have departed. The hotel promotes itself as being a real getaway, with no phone signals, TV's, or wi-fi. Could I cope? - sadly, no, probably not.
Later than day, we found our way to the Powys market town of Crickhowell. This is a pleasant little place, rising above the River Usk, home to just over 2,000 people and 5 open pubs, if I'm counting right.
We went to look at the castle which didn't take very long as there's not much of it left.
Llanthony would be intriguing of an evening once the day trippers have departed. The hotel promotes itself as being a real getaway, with no phone signals, TV's, or wi-fi. Could I cope? - sadly, no, probably not.
Later than day, we found our way to the Powys market town of Crickhowell. This is a pleasant little place, rising above the River Usk, home to just over 2,000 people and 5 open pubs, if I'm counting right.
We went to look at the castle which didn't take very long as there's not much of it left.
Treebeard's had been closed over lunch for a wedding party, the last remnants of which were still in evidence when we rocked up at 4pm.
A micro, opened a couple of years ago, it consists of one single room and a roadside seating area where you can admire the market hall and its fine jubilee clock across the road.
Beers were served straight from the barrel, with a choice of three local ales available.
I picked an enjoyable pale ale: 'UPA', from Raglan's Untapped Brewing Co.
A quick trip to check out the micro pub choice of WC artwork...
Then it was time to move on.
Not far - just across the road junction is the town's second Beer Guide entry, looking very photogenic in the late afternoon sunshine...
Not far - just across the road junction is the town's second Beer Guide entry, looking very photogenic in the late afternoon sunshine...
There's reportedly been an inn here since 1432, with the current Grade II listed building dating back to the mid-18th century.
It's a grand eye-catching coaching inn, with archway to the side leading through to what would once have been stables.
Stepping through the front-door evokes a feeling of being in a different era. There's an old telephone booth adjacent to the entrance, wooden beams, trad fireplaces and fifty shades of brown.
And it's almost completely empty, bar a few gentlefolk taking afternoon tea in the window seat. Nobody at the bar either, which gives us lots of time to make a decision of whether to have the Evan Evans 'Cwrw', Wadworth 'Kings Ale' Tim Tayor 'Landlord', or Brains 'Rev James'.
An old coaching inn like this should surely have some great ghost stories attached to it. But they've been superseded with tales of celebrity guests on Wiki - apparently Robbie Williams stayed here in the 90's whilst recording his debut solo LP, and Johnny Depp popped in in 2004 when he was filming nearby.
We were sat by some old bell pushes once used for hotel guests to call to be waited upon.
I had to look up what an ostler is.
I had to look up what an ostler is.
We sunk into a low comfy seat, realised that those normally little used muscles ached after walking up a hill, and that it might be quite difficult to get back up again.
But worth it for a lovely day of walking, sightseeing and supping fine ales in three very different pubs.
But worth it for a lovely day of walking, sightseeing and supping fine ales in three very different pubs.
The Bear used to be one of the last bastions of Bass outside the Midlands, so ironic it ditched it just as Bass became the most trendy beer in the UK !
ReplyDeleteThat Llanthony Priory is gorgeous, unsung classic.