Monday, 8 November 2021

Halifax Pub Explorations

Reporting on an early-week visit to Halifax where I planned to get around as many good pubs and bars as Monday opening allowed for.

My day began walking
 through Manchester in a deluge of rain, followed by a train journey which took twice as long as usual due to floods on the track by Todmorden.
But Halifax was kind enough to provide 15-minutes of surprise sunshine as I arrived. 
Just enough time to marvel at the Piece Hall...
The break in the weather was short-lived and the rain began to fall again, leaving me to retreat (not too reluctantly) to the shelter of a bar in the covered Westgate Arcade.
Kobenhavn (6 Westgate Arcade, Halifax, HX1 1DJ - web)
This was predictably quiet at midday on a Monday (their website picture shows it looking a bit different with all the outdoor benches occupied by happy souls).
In fact, it was just me, the barman and Samba Toure on the sound system.
Another chap arrived and promptly managed to knock over his pint of Vocation stout two sips in.  Which was a waste, as it was gorgeous.  I diligently made sure not a drop of my own 'Abduction'
 raspberry and plum stout went unaccounted for.
Very neat, tidy & stylish in Kobenhavn
Leaving the bar, I heading to another lunchtime opener, the Upper George.
Firstly I missed it completely, managing to walk in a big loop around the block.
Then I realised the alleyway leading to it from Crown Street was blocked by a van come to fix the leak which had prevented next door neighbour the Cat and Fiddle from opening.

Squeezing past the van, I saw the Greene King logo on the wall above several scowling smokers.  I was skeptical I was gonna enjoy this one. 
The Upper George (Crown Street, Halifax, HX1 1TT - web)
Inside it was wonderful.  A proper friendly welcome from the bar lady and a decent range of beers from which I picked the Bridgehouse porter, brewed in Keighley.
I'll wager that the same bunch of folks settled in the George when I visited could be found there every Monday lunchtime.  Very much a local's town pub whilst being comfortable and friendly to the odd out-of-town pub ticker.
If you're wondering who nicked the wet floor sign, I may have captured the culprit in action
Despite my best-laid plans, I ended up in 'Spoons.  Again.
And not even the one in town that looked quite nice...
I was passing time at the Percy Shaw before my hotel would let me check-in, which called for a pint and a Mangalorean cauliflower curry.

Check-in complete, I headed south of the centre, past the Shay, and under the railway line to the suburb of Siddal.
The Cross Keys (3 Whitegate, Siddal, HX3 9AE - web)
This was an instantly likeable back-to-basics boozer, with three rooms, some great ales and no modern distractions.  And lots of dogs..."It's like Crufts in 'ere" commented the landlord.

There was a fine choice of real ales from which I picked the Fell 'Export Stout', pulled through before being served and tasting splendid. 
Looking around at the half dozen locals in their favourite spots, all seemed to be on the cask ale, which was good to see.
Best spot in the house!
The locals were asking the landlord to report on a gig that he'd been to the previous weekend.
"How did you cope with standing up for an hour and a half, a man of your age?" one of them asked.
"And what about the urinary situation?"
Heck, this was really getting into the gig-going details!

I loved the Cross Keys and was thoroughly happy here.
But it was time to head back toward the centre in the afternoon dusk.
There just happens to be a fine refreshment stop en-route...
Three Pigeons (1 Sun Fold, Halifax, HX1 2LX - web)
What an incredible pub!
It was built in 1932 by Webster's Brewery in a striking Art Deco style.
The central hub, containing the bar, is octagonal with five rooms branching off it, each one appealing with bench seating, 30's artwork, brewery mirrors and fine fireplaces.
It really deserved more than the two pictures I've included here...
 

The Three Pigeons is run by the ever reliable Ossett Brewery, with their familiar beer range on offer.
Finishing my fine 'Butterley' pale ale, I walked the rest of the way back to central Halifax.  Of three good sounding crafty bars, only the Victorian Beer Cafe was open on a Monday, so that's where I ended up.

Victorian Craft Beer Cafe (18-22 Powell Street, Halifax, HX1 1LN - web)
"What kind of thing are you after?", asked the barman.
Something dark, says I.
"We've this lovely imperial chocolate stout?"
Ooof -
10% - but go on then.
"Pint of?"
What sort of monster do I look like that I'd want my 10% beers by the pint?!  Still, as he started the bidding high I ended up opting for a half, when a third would have been more advisable.

Fortunately the SQUAWK Brewing Co 'Rufa' was delicious and dangerously easy to drink.
Located behind the Victoria Theatre, the Craft Bar was full of character.  Open since 2014 it was an Italian restaurant in a previous incarnation and features a number of rooms on different levels, with high book shelves and quirky corners.

The 10% stout marked the end of the my day's drinking.  Perhaps unsurprisingly.

Time to head to the Vue and see if I could get through James Bond without falling into a craft beer induced snooze in front of the big screen.

It's a shame to have missed a lot of great looking bars and pubs on this early-week visit.
But I enjoyed Halifax and was glad to have done those that I did.

And what you really come here to see is where your Quality Street are made...

1 comment:

  1. Lovely pics, great pub town (it wasn't 20 years ago though !). That Upper George was a real treat, sadly dropped out of GBG22 to make way for the 2 new craft places but would walk the Guide in 90% of the UK.

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